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Ascenders on ropes


Original Post
Collin Farley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

How much damage does one Petzl ascender do to a dynamic rope? Would you climb with a rope after using ascenders on it?

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 5

As long as we're talking about jumaring up one, no significant body weight drops onto it, you are fine. Wall climbers jumar on dynamic ropes all the time, sometimes using the same lead line to jumar and lead on, as in Pete Whittaker's solo of El Cap. I have led on ropes after jumaring on them. They were fine.

Here he is jumaring his lead line. He used the same rope to lead and jumar around 30 pitches just fine.  
Chris Little · · Albuquerque N.M. · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

I'm sure Petzl has done studies to determine the damage caused to ropes by using ascenders on them. I used to have a pair of Gibbs ascenders and I used them without concern. In my humble opinion, they did less damage because they have no teeth. Using ascenders on a rope never stopped me from using it. My friends had ascenders, and I led on their ropes. I lost my Gibbs and replaced them with Petzls. I like them. Perhaps Petzl, Jumar, and other ascender makers could release results of their studies. Or is there a cover up going on ?

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,423
Collin Farley wrote: How much damage does one Petzl ascender do to a dynamic rope? Would you climb with a rope after using ascenders on it?

Folks doing multi pitch (or single pitch) aid climbing don't retire their ropes after their partner cleans a pitch...

If you slip the ascender, you could damage the sheath.  Something to keep an eye out for.  Otherwise...no issue.
Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 745

No problem with normal use. I think the rope will get fuzzier quicker, but certainly not after one use. I don't do much multipitch, but I have done a fair amount of fixing the rope so a photographer could jumar up it for a photo shoot, and also use ascender as a belayer to aid in boinking the climber back up to the rock after a fall on an overhanging route.  

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Collin Farley wrote: How much damage does one Petzl ascender do to a dynamic rope? Would you climb with a rope after using ascenders on it?

I´ve put over 400 pitches on a dynamic rope with a Petzl ascender AND lead them all on the same rope as well.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Auden Alsop wrote:Re big wall climbers:" sometimes using the same lead line to jumar and lead on"

That probably should read: normally using the same lead line to jumar and lead on.


It really is the norm on El Cap and the like.
r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Observation:

Climbers have been posting their unfounded concerns online about teethed ascenders for years (see any solo TR thread), but the only people concerned are the ones with no experience on the subject at hand.

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 5
David Coley wrote:

That probably should read: normally using the same lead line to jumar and lead on.


It really is the norm on El Cap and the like.

Oops! My bad

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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