Mountain Project Logo

Suggestions for Big Multis and Alpine Climbs out West


Original Post
Very Strange · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 432

I'll be traveling out west for potentially 3-5 months (May-Aug/Sept) in 2019 and looking to focus on getting on some big climbs. Was just curious if anyone wanted to spray about some of their favorite multipitches. Mostly like Grade III to Grade V climbs. Mainly up to 5.10+, mostly looking for things in the 9 to mid 10 range with an alpine feel, big approaches, or that just can't be missed. I'll do plenty of the easier classics too! I'm especially partial to splitters.

Wind Rivers - NE Face of Pingora
Grand Tetons - Open Book, North Ridge of the Grand
RMNP - Casual Route
Wasatch - Triple Overhangs, Vertical Smiles, Arm and Hammer
Yosemite - Serenity-Sons, East Buttress and DNB of Middle Catheral, Regular Route of Higher Cathedral, On the Lamb, Crescent Arch, Regular Route of Fairview
Sawtooths - Mountaineers Route
Cascades - Outer Space, Upper North Ridge with Great Gendarme of Stuart, Clean Break, West Ridge of Forbidden, East Face of Lexington, NW Corner of Early North Winter Spire
Bugaboos - anything

I'll be doing a lot of cragging along the way too but I don't really need suggestions for that, as the big climbs will be the objectives that keep me moving around. I'll be sure to swing by the good stuff along the way for a few days.

Tomko · · SANTA CLARA CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 10

For long badass, alpine 9s and 10s you are going to love the eastern Sierras.  So much good stuff on the Hulk, Mt. Russel, Temple Crag and more fit that exact description!

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

Do the complete NR of Stuart if you're going to do the route. The 9+ pitch down low is quite fun and while the rest of it is really moderate you miss out on lots of fun ridge climbing. Also if you do the complete you never need to go on that steep of snow, so you can go lighter on footwear. I used aluminum pons and just grabbed rocks instead of bringing an axe.

Lots of fun routes at WA pass, NW corner and west face of NEWS can be done in a day. Do west face first to get on the face before the rock is warm, the corner stays in shade all day and is cold (I wore my belay puffy the whole route in late August). 

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

Evolution Traverse. Ultimate 5.9 

Very Strange · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 432

Tomko wrote: For long badass, alpine 9s and 10s you are going to love the eastern Sierras.  So much good stuff on the Hulk, Mt. Russel, Temple Crag and more fit that exact description!

Awesome, thanks! Some really cool looking climbs out there, I'll add a few to the list

Max Rausch · · Monterey, CA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 125

Harding Route on Mt. Conness fits the bill. Big approach, very alpine, 10+ climbing. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply to "Suggestions for Big Multis and Alpine Climbs ou…"
in the General Climbing

Log In to Reply