Mountain Project Logo

Gunks Mystery Climb


Original Post
MattH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 420

Hey Gunks Locals,
I'm trying to find info on a climb in the Trapps between Credibility Gap and Asphodel. A couple weeks ago I did the line in the photo below while warming up for/waiting on the Mac wall (initially thinking I was following the directions for Credibility Gap).
It's not on Mountain Project or in my guidebook. However, I thought it was a worthwhile route and wondered if anyone knew more. There was a piton in the upper corner (after pulling around left) and it's definitely a manageable grade, so I figured it has to have some sort of history behind it.
Cheers,
Matt

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 290

Don't know anything about the the climb but looks cool. What grade do you give it? 

MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 66

Do you have the Williams guide? Nothing listed in there? I followed someone up it before I knew the Gunks well and he did it thinking it was Credibility Gap. I found some info somewhere later on but am not sure if it was in a guide, or someone mentioned it (would have been on the dead gunks.com or rockclimbing.com sites back then - 2005). I feel like I thought it was ~8ish? I can't seem to turn up anything with Google...

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,454

Give me a bit, it has ONLY BEEN DECADES, I cant make out where the pointy roof crack is?

 . . . is there still a fixed hex near the apex of a crack that leads out a pointed roof, low-ish?,( look for a rusted wire) Where the red line breaks, (after, left/above) the slab?
 I climbed a lot of independent lines that were often considered variations   
losbill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 130

Believe it is the original line of Credibility Gap as depicted in Swain.  It appears Williams in the Gray Dick notes it as Pitch 1 variation 1, noting it as the original route, depicting it as a dotted line on the topo photo and grading it as 5.5.  Dana will undoubtedly proffer the authoritative information once he sees your query.  Climbed it years ago since wasps or a Copperhead, can't recall which, were occupying the path left.  Recall it to be good climbing.  

Adrienne DiRosario · · Troy, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Credibility Gap is #229. Kevin's roof is #230 which is a 12d. Looks like you did a bit of both. 

MattH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 420
Adrienne DiRosario wrote: Credibility Gap is #229. Kevin's roof is #230 which is a 12d. Looks like you did a bit of both.

Ah, it looks like I did a (much easier) variation of Kevin's roof. Now I wish I'd tried that line after.

JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 90

i love Credibility Gap so much.  Thats one of the classic Gunks moves where it looks so damn intimidating until you get out on the edge of the roof and everything you need is right where it should be.

Gunks Apps · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 235
MattH wrote: Hey Gunks Locals,
I'm trying to find info on a climb in the Trapps between Credibility Gap and Asphodel. A couple weeks ago I did the line in the photo below while warming up for/waiting on the Mac wall (initially thinking I was following the directions for Credibility Gap).
It's not on Mountain Project or in my guidebook. However, I thought it was a worthwhile route and wondered if anyone knew more. There was a piton in the upper corner (after pulling around left) and it's definitely a manageable grade, so I figured it has to have some sort of history behind it.
Cheers,
Matt
Hey Matt, What Adrienne said above is correct. You did the start of Kevin's Roof (10a R  due to the loose rock) then you traversed into an old 5.7+ variation of Credibility Gap.
We left the CG variation out of the app because of the rope drag, dirty climbing higher up and lack of good place to belay. A nice option when the Mac Wall is crowded is Tough Existence. It starts up Tough Shift (5.10b) then moves right before the R climbing and then moves into the forgotten but interesting second pitch of No Existence (old school wide 5.9+ roof crack).
~Christian


MattH · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 420
Gunks Apps wrote: Hey Matt, What Adrienne said above is correct. You did the start of Kevin's Roof (10a R  due to the loose rock) then you traversed into an old 5.7+ variation of Credibility Gap.
We left the CG variation out of the app because of the rope drag, dirty climbing higher up and lack of good place to belay. A nice option when the Mac Wall is crowded is Tough Existence. It starts up Tough Shift (5.10b) then moves right before the R climbing and then moves into the forgotten but interesting second pitch of No Existence (old school wide 5.9+ roof crack).
~Christian


Thanks for the info and the route recommendation! The CG variation you describe fit my thoughts on the upper section to a T. The corner was definitely a bit spicy between the rock quality and the looming bellyflop onto the lower slab if you bungle the entry moves. Fun movement though.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Just for some ancient history, there was a time (maybe the first Gran guidebook, I'll check when I get home), when moving around the corner onto Overhanging Layback on TS before the business was called (uncharitably) Borgoff's Botch.

The original start to NE was a 5.8 solo on the face left of OL, which for some reason decreased the popularity of the excellent top pitch of NE, which some people might find to be 10a (which is to say slightly easier than old school 9+, as the joke goes).  I don't remember anything calling for Certified Wide Technique, but if memory serves, overhanging hand jamming was on the menu.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Gunks Mystery Climb"

Log In to Reply