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Zodiac Rack


Original Post
Gage Holbert · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Trying to get the most up to date info on the rack for zodiac, Thanks 

Ryan Strickland · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 131

I did it 4 years ago. Here's what I was glad to have:

  • Medium and small beaks to place by hand
  • 2 narrow cam hooks and 1 wide cam hood
  • 2 #5 C4s.
  • A talon and one other larger hook
  • Double set of brass offsets 
I led every pitch of the route and found no need for sawed angles or other pins. It easily went hammerless. 
Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

We were glad to have 3x #5 C4’s, and an old green #5 for above the peanut, 2x #5 C4’s will get you through if you are bold.  I liked leaving a couple pieces along the way.
We also used a couple larger sawed off’s on the Black Tower pitch, my partner one tapped them.
A handful of beaks were helpful too.  A couple each #2&3 is plenty.
Above the Nipple a short hand placed Lost Arrow gets you easily through a vertical pocket where I have no idea how anything else would work at all.  I used no other lost arrows.

Otherwise a double rack with lots of extra small cams, a decent set of assorted nuts, the usual hooks assortment, some assorted rivet hangers, and you are good to go.

We went heavy and scared, YMMV.

sc thomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

double set of metolius offset mastercams (with thumbloops); particularly the three smallest.  set of totems would make things go easier as well.  cam hooks were essential. if you dont have rivet hangers you can use small nuts (that can slide down the wire and cinch up around the rivet).  i found that when things got tough a hand placed beak/tomahawk or cam hook got me through.

Warrior · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310

I used 2 #4 friends. Not wide enough imo. Bring what these guys say or pay.

Someone told me later there were a bunch of bat hook holes to avoid the tipped outs above the Peanut but I rarely notice that stuff.

I used some lowe balls to avoid pin placements for certain.  I didn't have any cam hooks but later found out how useful they are.

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

I would agree with the above but would emphasize offset cams and the cam hooks as the keys to climbing it clean.  We had 2 #5 camalots and I would take three if I did the route again.  Keyhole hangers were nice for some rivets.  I would also take a full set of hooks including a big pika hook.  I lead the nipple pitch clean but only because I was leapfrogging the med cam hooks.  (super exciting)  We also hand placed beaks on the black tower in addition to a couple sawed offs.  Its an amazing route, have fun!

Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 8

I did the pitch off peanut with a #4 & #5 C4 only. But another #5 would be nice. No need to carry anything bigger.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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