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Anchor in chains


Original Post
Eli Vallejo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Is it okay to build an anchor in the middle part of the chains hanging from regular bolts? Using a double length sling and lockers?

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 661

Yes.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Eli Vallejo wrote: Is it okay to build an anchor in the middle part of the chains hanging from regular bolts? Using a double length sling and lockers?

Yes, but ideally you should clip the hangers- keep the links between you and the ground to a minimum.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 867
John Wilder wrote:

Yes, but ideally you should clip the hangers- keep the links between you and the ground to a minimum.

This is true to a degree.  But, clipping directly to the hangers can lead to biner gouge or torqued biners.  

  • Biner gouge may be ok if you have dedicated anchor biners.  But, most biners end up having a rope run through them at some point and a gouged biner can easily damage a rope.  

  • Torqued biners really compromise the biners' strength.  I see way too many people insisting on fitting their biners into the hangers no matter how poorly they sit.  Clipping one or two links down may be better in some cases.  

  • Soft goods?  Perhaps you are referring to attaching soft goods, such as girth hitching a sling.  Of course, biner gouge and torqued biners are not an issue.  But, the "sharp" edge of a hanger can be a problem if the anchor sees a high, direct impact.

Eli Vallejo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks for the help. 

Bill Mustard · · Silt, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

Cant remember the last time i had a fully torqued biner. Im think it was Nam?

Al Pine · · The 'yack, NY · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Clip the hangers UNDER the chains and your biner won't get bent, twerked or torqued.

If the route you're climbing happens to be multi pitch and shares fixed anchors with a rappel route, be a good citizen and don't occupy the rings/ chains. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107
Al Pine wrote: Clip the hangers UNDER the chains and your biner won't get bent, twerked or torqued.

If the route you're climbing happens to be multi pitch and shares fixed anchors with a rappel route, be a good citizen and don't occupy the rings/ chains. 

the problem with clipping the hangers under the chains is if it is a strenuous location with no stance, it is a PITA to clean.


sometimes the biner will sit fine above the chain, so i will clip it to the hanger above the chain.  sometimes it doesn't sit well there, so i will clip it into the chain instead.  sometimes i have a fat biner and it won't fit through a skinny chain, so i clip it to the hanger.  etc.....
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,795
slim wrote:

the problem with clipping the hangers under the chains is if it is a strenuous location with no stance, it is a PITA to clean.


sometimes the biner will sit fine above the chain, so i will clip it to the hanger above the chain.  sometimes it doesn't sit well there, so i will clip it into the chain instead.  sometimes i have a fat biner and it won't fit through a skinny chain, so i clip it to the hanger.  etc.....

So clip into the quicklink or ring that connects the chain to the hanger. Problem(s) solved.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341

Don't clip the chain if it's connected with lap links which are substantially weaker than quicklinks. 

Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 197

As long as you anchor with the rope and not a cordelette, it really doesn't matter.

Cheers,

DMT

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 867
Robert Michael wrote: As long as you anchor with the rope and not a cordelette, it really doesn't matter.

Cheers,

DMT

what?  god help us.

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 1,060

This probably goes without saying, but people have done it so.... Don't clip around the chains.  If you are going to clip into the chains, clip directly into a link.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Eli Vallejo wrote: Is it okay to build an anchor in the middle part of the chains hanging from regular bolts? Using a double length sling and lockers?


Not if you are going to be belaying a leader, imo.

Perfectly fine for a TR if the chain is stout...but (depending greatly on the chain) they are not always "bomber" for serious loads nor are they commonly made to any sort of real manufacturing standard that is acceptable for climbing gear or subject to a regular testing protocol.

My policy is to belay a leader only off of things certified for climbing use...this means they are made to QC standards that you can reasonably risk your life on....I don't risk my life (or the leader's) on something manufactured for another purpose and for the lowest possible cost in some factory in China without a shred of testing that it will do what they claim.

Note that pretty much all of these "hardware store" sort of doodad usually have a warning to never risk a human life to the product. However, if it is rated, say, for a ~1500# working load I am fine with it for body weight (ie TR or to rappel). But not for holding some potentially severe fall event that might really test if it was made right.
Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 197
Greg D wrote:

what?  god help us.

It was a snide reference to a recent thread that went to shit.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,795
Robert Michael wrote:

It was a snide reference to a recent thread that went to shit.


And you thought it was a good idea to lower the caliber of this thread as well?

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 380
Greg D wrote:


  • Biner gouge may be ok if you have dedicated anchor biners.  But, most biners end up having a rope run through them at some point and a gouged biner can easily damage a rope.  

Anyone climbing sport (or even setting up TR's on sport) should already know that your draws should have dedicated bolt-side and rope-side biners.  

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 7,232
King Tut wrote:


Not if you are going to belaying a leader, imo.

Perfectly fine for a TR if the chain is stout...but (depending greatly on the chain) they are not always "bomber" for serious loads nor are they made commonly made to any sort of real manufacturing standard.

My policy is to belay a leader only off of things certified for climbing use...this means they are made to QC standards that you can reasonably risk your life on....I don't risk my life (or the leader's) on something manufactured for the lowest possible cost in some factory in China.

Note that pretty much all of these "hardware store" sort of doodad usually have a warning to never risk a human life to the product. However, if it is rated, say, for a ~1500# working load I am fine with it for body weight (ie TR or to rappel). But not for holding some potentially severe fall event that might really test if it was made right.

Yeah,  "stoutness" matters.  Some chains you find are well below the grade you need.  In this case clip under the chain to the hanger.  Otherwise, if it is a #30, 5/16th ", not too rusty, clip near the hanger.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 867
Pnelson wrote:

Anyone climbing sport (or even setting up TR's on sport) should already know that your draws should have dedicated bolt-side and rope-side biners.  

Yes. Sport climbers are born with this knowledge. So 100% of them already know this.  

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,185
But really. Let’s go for one to two more pages for some really derp level stuff. Next up: wiping your butt and bare thumb involvement
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107
Gunkiemike wrote:

So clip into the quicklink or ring that connects the chain to the hanger. Problem(s) solved.

that's pretty much what i was saying.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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