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Hand Conditioning


Original Post
Nate Tastic · · 88,4,108,50, 80 · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10


· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

good for pinch strength. I have a piece of limestone shaped like a prism that I got  from spearfish for the same purpose. It has narrow and wide pinches.  I makes a good warmup for hangboard training at home  

Karl K · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 525

I feel that hangboard sessions might be more interesting if we all had partners who punched us in the neck and butt.......

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

That video is incredible!

CrimpDaddy-WesP · · Hollis nh · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 375

I know how to train for the bold flash now

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

Ridiculous video aside, I'm actually curious about this.

I have a friend back east who swears that hangboarding is only good for maximum grip strength but "hand conditioning" is arguably more important. He uses the term "hand conditioning" to describe the maximum output of grip strength without getting pumped. His reasoning is when climbing a route you never are trying with maximum effort for 7 seconds and then completely off for 3 seconds like in a hangboard repeater workout. And except for a handful of moves, very rarely are your hands bearing your full body weight. Instead, you are using footwork to minimize the weight borne by your hands and fingers.

He instead trains by attach holds (i.e. rock rings) to weights at less than body weight and holding them for long periods of time. In his view, this more accurately replicates the duration of effort and the loads encountered of actual climbing. He makes no claim that this improves technique but instead of solely focusing on maximum grip strength, the longer holds at lesser weight translate better to climbing than short period of maximum effort mixed with short periods of rest.

I want to tell him he's an idiot, but he climbs a lot harder than I do and swears by this method. Anyone have any insight?

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

your friend is definitely on drugs.

· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I think people used to train that way but they figure out that 7 sec on 3 sec off works better than a long hang. I think they found out that finger rolls with heavy weight dont work that well. Tell him about H.I.T workout by Nicros.

I think that any workout would help. Even the MP trolls typing get a good workout

Jer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 25
TheBirdman Friedman wrote: Ridiculous video aside, I'm actually curious about this.

I have a friend back east who swears that hangboarding is only good for maximum grip strength but "hand conditioning" is arguably more important. He uses the term "hand conditioning" to describe the maximum output of grip strength without getting pumped. His reasoning is when climbing a route you never are trying with maximum effort for 7 seconds and then completely off for 3 seconds like in a hangboard repeater workout. And except for a handful of moves, very rarely are your hands bearing your full body weight. Instead, you are using footwork to minimize the weight borne by your hands and fingers.

He instead trains by attach holds (i.e. rock rings) to weights at less than body weight and holding them for long periods of time. In his view, this more accurately replicates the duration of effort and the loads encountered of actual climbing. He makes no claim that this improves technique but instead of solely focusing on maximum grip strength, the longer holds at lesser weight translate better to climbing than short period of maximum effort mixed with short periods of rest.

I want to tell him he's an idiot, but he climbs a lot harder than I do and swears by this method. Anyone have any insight?

"Max output of grip strength without getting pumped"? Sounds like your friend just discovered ARCing.

The problem is that he seems to be excluding the complementary training that will increase max output of grip strength (with getting pumped).

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65
Jer wrote:

"Max output of grip strength without getting pumped"? Sounds like your friend just discovered ARCing.

I don't think ARCing is aimed at the max output of grip strength. It is essentially cardiovascular training for your arms. 


ARCing may improve your overall endurance, but if you're unable to hold a 1-pad crimp, ARCing won't train your ability to do that (or hold it any longer). 
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 106

I would also not be too sure about holding moderate weights for long periods of time for the same reason that holding a plank for more than a few minutes doesn't really help develop anything useful and your time is better spent on something else. 

Connor McCafferty · · Portland · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Old guy in the video could probably climb 12a first time out. 

· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Connor McCafferty wrote: Old guy in the video could probably climb 12a first time out. 

Old man envy?

Floyd Eggers · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 251

"Brought to you by Alcohol" 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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