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shady areas in the swell


Original Post
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

any quick recommendations for shady areas in the swell, whether they be tower routes or cragging? thanks in advance!

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

bumpity bump...

jacob talley · · Park CIty, Utah · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

the lightbulb and the molar 

John Pikus · · Central Utah · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 85

Tippin' the Bottle on Bottleneck Peak. Amazing route!

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

john, how is the approach to bottleneck peak?  also, how was the third pitch?  are the blocks super loose, or just not-solid?

John Pikus · · Central Utah · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 85

The approach isn't bad, I think it took us 30-45 minutes? There are cairns if you can find them.

Third pitch starts with a pretty spooky move and IMO marginal pro which I thought was the only potentially dangerous part. The top does get pretty loose but is 5.8-5.9ish.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,580

My route on Mirage Tower in Coal Wash requires some tough 4WD, but is usually shady.  All of it aside from a short bolt ladder should go free at 5.11ish, and the bolt ladder you could french free and might even go free.  Someone repeated it recently and confirmed that it is a really good route.

Chopped Sand on Outhouse Tower is kind of silly but is shady.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

thanks andrew and others, much appreciated!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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