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Looking for size 4-5 in. training cracks in the Creek.

Original Post
Timothy Nooney · · Asheville, NC · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 55

I'd like to start climbing some wider pitches. I don't feel like I can say I'm a 5.10 climber until I can reasonably climb any style pitch of that grade....I know its silly, but its the arbitrary rule I made up for myself. I live relatively close to the creek, at least close enough to make a quick weekend trip there, so ideally any recommendations will be focused there.

What routes would you recommend as training cracks for that size?   

Steve Tarnowski · · Aztec, NM · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 15

I would spend some time up at Way Rambo. First hop on Way Nutter (5.9) - fun little ow with lots of face holds. Then for some "real" ow try Desire (5.10) - long stretch of that size and a good route to practice your ow technique. If you are feeling strong try Good Times (11-) - a lot of BD #5

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Routes I've done with #4-#5 (some have some #6 too), can learn OW technique from all

In no particular order:

5.9-5.10:
Way nutter
Desire
Dawn of an age
Low cholesterol
Pigs in a slot
The Fat Farm
unnamed 5.10+ right of renegades of funk on way rambo... don't layback.
Sumo
A little more masochism

5.11-:
Big guy
The Serrator

(Note: Good times is VERY long OW and a heck of a commitment. I am still scared to lead this one!)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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