Mountain Project Logo

Where to climb in the USA?


Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Hi, leaving out Yosemite, T. Meadows, J. Tree, Gunks, Senneca, Zion, Red Rocks, desert towers, Moab and Indian Creek, Lumpy Ridge, Flat Irons, The diamond, what might the top ten places to climb in the USA, please.

I'm after somewhere new for a holiday with a bunch of friends. Multi pitch would be good, with lots in the 5.6 to 5.10 range.

Thanks

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 6

southern Yosemite/shuteye ridge
Cochise in AZ

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Smith

Colin Yinzer · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 50

Bishop, Whitney Portal, SEKI, Southern Sierra, Dome Rock, The Needles, Tahquitz, Cochise... just throwing out some not on your list

Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

If you are on the east coast, Seneca Rocks, WV is excellent! Shorter multi-pitch, easy camping, climbing shop and restaurant/general store all within a 5 minute walk of climbing with no cell service for miles in any direction. Plus, it is super historic - it's where the 10th mountain division trained to go kick some Nazi ass. Also, less than 3 hours from New River Gorge for more incredible climbing and you can raft/kayak the NRG and Gauley if the season is right (or BASE off the bridge if that's your thing).

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Rushmore / Custer / Spearfish
Devil's Tower? never climbed there myself
City of Rocks
White Mtns/North Conway NH (Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, & many others)

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

When is the holiday?

Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 295

In Colorado you could check out the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Eldorado Canyon, Elevenmile Canyon.

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 668
Ryan Swanson wrote: Smith

If I traveled internationally to climb at Smith I would  quite climbing

Cory F · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

Tahquitz, New River Gorge, Seneca Rocks, and Red Rive Gorge.

Edit: Lovers Leap (How could I forget!!!)

T G · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 51

Rulling out the areas you've mentioned it's going to be somewhat challenging to find lots of multi-pitch climbing in the grade range you indicated. In no particular order:

Lover's Leap near Lake Tahoe, CA
Tahquitz, CA
Pinnacles, CA
Owens River Gorge, CA
Eldorado Canyon, CO
Devil's Tower, WY
Vedauwoo, WY
Lander, WY region
Wind River Range, WY
Index and Leavenworth areas, WA state - could head to Washington Pass and Liberty Bell, too
New River Gorge, WV
Spearfish, SD
Rumney, NH
Grand Junction, CO region (Colorado National Monument, Escalante Canyon, etc.)
Red River Gorge, KY
Mt Lemmon, AZ region

The NW region of Washington state has a number of areas to climb sport and trad within reasonable proximity to each other, and you could always take a side trip to Squamish, BC.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Mike Brady wrote:

If I traveled internationally to climb at Smith I would  quite climbing

Tell it to JB Tribout, Marc Lemenestral, Patrick Edlinger, Catherine Destivelle et al that traveled to Smith for world class sport test pieces.

I wouldn't travel there to do 5.9-5.11(though there are many good ones there) but 5.12-5.14 it is world class my friend.
Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Mike Brady wrote:

If I traveled internationally to climb at Smith I would  quite climbing

Neat

Kevin Marsh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 20

THE NEW

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 668
King Tut wrote:


5.12-5.14 it is world class my friend.

High quantity doesn't always mean quality. I could be wrong though considering I don't climb 5.13 and up. Smith isn't the only crag in the US to host a high concentration of difficult climbing anymore. All this said I love Smith but I wouldn't travel any further than a couple hours for it.....especially considering the crowds out there now.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
FrankPS wrote: When is the holiday?

Sometime between Easter and September, inclusive

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
David Coley wrote:

Sometime between Easter and September, inclusive

A six-month holiday window sounds good.

climber pat · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 215

Organ mountains

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,150

Since your preference was multi-pitch moderates.

City of Rocks in Idaho, Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons in Utah.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Best Granite moderate crack climbing in USA....The Needles (California) hands down. Igor Unchained may be the best route of its grade anywhere.

For super moderates: White Punks on Dope and Magic Dragon.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,404

.Kentucky
& West Virginia
Smoke Hole Canyon & The New

Arkansas

&

Tennessee 

Edit:
Ty Falk said. . . . .  Lone Peak Cirque, LCC. . . .As if they were together, Other than being in Woot-ha, they are very different One, Lone Peak Cirque, is Alpine worth the trip with full packs for days,
While I know, A "fast & light" : -car to car  in a long day- is possible ( that has become so regular these days?type 2 fun,asking for it?)
& it seems to miss out on a lot,  Taking the time to adjust; going at a slower pace leaves the ability to fully appreciate the beauty of the alpine environment.
On the other hand is the classic day cragging in  fhe canyons, out side of Salt Lake City; Little Cottonwood Canyon, LCC, Big Cottonwood Canyon, BCC, & Logan are the perfect mix of all types of long day crag climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
Post a Reply to "Where to climb in the USA?"

Log In to Reply