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NRG Suggestions for 5'1" climber


Original Post
Ryan McCorvey · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 545

I've been told that a lot of the climbs at The New can tend to be a little reachy... This is great for me being 6'1 with monkey arms; my reach is the strongest part of my climbing skillset. My girlfriend however, is 5'1" and looking for suggestions. She'll only be here a few days so I figure it would be better to ask you guys instead of her getting shut down on a bunch of routes that she maybe shouldn't have been on in the first place.

Mainly looking for anything 5.12-13.-, but will gladly take any suggestions, harder or easier! 

Ryan McDermott · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 95

My 12-yr-old son is about 4’6” and has sent Apollo Reed and done all the moves on Super Mario. Others have recommended Black Rider for him. 

Cocoapuffs 1000 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 10

The Upper Meadow has many good options.  Starry 12a, Creature 12c and Corner Pocket 13a come to mind.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,649

Don't really have any route suggestions because I'm old and weak and tall (I typically hit a ceiling at about 11+/12- and look for routes that are steep with long moves between good holds) buuuuuuttt...

There is a Power Company podcast featuring a young woman that frequents the area, and is short.  Pretty good listen and the topic is the same topic of this thread.  http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/1/8/episode-72-does-size-matter-with-marina-inoue

Have fun!

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Some references in this thread as well: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113524732/513s-for-shorties-at-nrgrrgchat

Let me go ahead and get the inevitable Lynn Hill (She's 5' 2") shout-out done as well: http://socialboor.com/user/lasportivana/media/1730638129305536386_245057243

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 745

Apollo Reed is definitely in the doable category.

Narcissus is fun..

Made in Shade at Area 51 has one reachy spot, but I've seen shorter girls do it.
Same with Psychowrangler at Cotton Top.
Same with Brown Star at brilliant Pebble

Push and Lambda are two good 12's at the First buttress

Tiggers and Airplanes, Hook Line and Tigger, Way of the Beaver at The Other Place ( the last route is much easier than the grade, IMO)

Ryan McDermott · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 95
Lena chita wrote: Apollo Reed is definitely in the doable category.

Narcissus is fun..

Made in Shade at Area 51 has one reachy spot, but I've seen shorter girls do it.
Same with Psychowrangler at Cotton Top.
Same with Brown Star at brilliant Pebble

Push and Lambda are two good 12's at the First buttress

Tiggers and Airplanes, Hook Line and Tigger, Way of the Beaver at The Other Place ( the last route is much easier than the grade, IMO)

Yeah, my 12-yr-old also did Psychowrangler and Narcissus no problem. 

Alexander Stathis · · Athens, GA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 267

Jump.

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 92

Just try to avoid Doug Reed routes.  A great climber and a great guy too but his reach is off the charts and he used it. 

skinny legs · · Virginia · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 21
Ryan McDermott wrote:

Yeah, my 12-yr-old also did Psychowrangler and Narcissus no problem. 

Same here, my 10-yr-old sent them in a couple burns each.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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