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How is everyone getting back into shape for the spring?

5.samadhi · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

I took off climbing this winter and surfed every magic I am pretty shredded long as I limit myself to 1 weed brownie/night I'll be aight! :O

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 491

Second Andrew’s recommendation of logical progression. I’ve laid out my gym training based on it since October and seen great improvement in both endurance and max bouldering.

I’ve done the RCTM arc training in the past, logistically it only worked at 6am weekdays, so I couldn’t lead. After ten minutes on the wall climbing 5.9 to 10 I’m so damn bored that footwork suffers. While it might have helped physiologically building capillary density, mentally I just became good at hanging onto jugs. It didn’t transfer to rock well imo.

On Bechtels plan you do linked boulders for what he calls “intensive endurance”. Similar to what Mark described early on. Climb a problem, then down climb/traverse to arrive at the base of another problem and start it at the 2 minute mark. You’ll start with 5 problems in a set (10min on wall), 5 minute rest between sets and 4 sets total. There’s a good progression from there in the book.
This worked so much better for me than a steady state effort. The breaks of doing problems up with intent focus on technique with the easier downclimb or traverse made it easier to be climbing in good form on the last set. It also let me up the intensity and vary holds/movement so much more than being stuck on one rope set. When I started in the fall I was doing a 40min set on just past vertical v1 problems. Now it’s steep v2 or just past vert v3 problems for a set. 
As for limit boulders, did that on the moonboard mostly. Couldn’t get any benchmark v4 in a session when I started. Was doing benchmark v5 in two sessions by last month. 
If you are in a position where you have plateaued hard for more than a year I think the intensive linear program of rctm makes sense. 90% of the people would be better served on a non linear plan constantly stayed honed in each technique imo.  

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,030

I’ll add another vote for linked boulder circuits, or 4x4s over ARCIng for RRG. RRG climbing feels a bit more like PE l, rather than pure endurance. 

IMO everything else being identical (same boulder  problems), LBCs are a bit harder than 4x4s if you had never done them, because there is that momentary release of not being on the wall when you move from problem to problem on 4x4s. So if it is new to you, start with 4x4s maybe. 

If you can flash a V4, and pump out on 10c, either your gym sets boulder and routes very differently, or you need PE desperately. Pick 4 V0/V1s and start there. There is nothing harder than a V2 on 5.10/5.11- at the Red. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Yeah, like I endurance is shot.  That’s not normal; in fact, I’m normally more of a route climber than boulderer, but since having a kid, I’ve had a harder time keeping regular partners and bouldering is a lot easier for “climb when the kids fall asleep” scheduling.  So that’s why I’m curious about how people shift back into endurance mode rather than a long term program.  Linked boulders sounds like a great idea.

Greg Shea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10
Ted Pinson wrote:

Totally agree, but IMO it will always be a factor regardless of how clean your clipping technique.  You still have to stop to clip and hang from one arm, and locking off is sometimes necessary if a route is poorly bolted or just not suitable for your size.  Compare leading a vertical route to toproping it...pump factor is totally different, at least for me.

Maybe just do this

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 881

I got Norovirus this weekend, no climbing but I think I touched sending weight. Wouldn't wish it on anybody though

Jake Thomson · · Yosemite · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

i switch hands while masturbating

. Mobes · · MDI · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865
Soulless Ginger wrote: i switch hands while masturbating

Keep it fun I say. Do you prefer 20 on/20 off or 4x4s?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
Jon Rhoderick wrote: I got Norovirus this weekend, no climbing but I think I touched sending weight. Wouldn't wish it on anybody though

Too much Chipotle?

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 160

Living in the southeast.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Damn you.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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