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Best Moderate Multipitch Routes in Switzerland


Original Post
DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 740

I'll be in Switzerland mid May:

Looking for suggestions for routes longer than 3 pitches anywhere from 5.4-5.9 in difficulty

Thanks,

Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15

Check out the Grimsel pass area, Ive never been there but planning to  this July. Motorhead on Eldorado is on my list, just a bit harder than 5.9 and looks cool.

hannes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

hey iam hannes from austria
i have this guidebook
https://www.bergfreunde.de/panico-alpinverlag-best-of-keepwild-climbs-kletterfuehrer/
every route is clean and not so difficult from 5.5 to 5.9 max 5.10 with short or longer approach good fotos and topos included 
remember for switzerland bring a couple of pitons for rappling at de descent just for the worst case
best wishes hannes

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 680

One of the best I've done is the Galtigenturme towers on Pilatus - 4 towers of moderate difficulty (5.4-5.7), with tremendous views of the Alps. Not terribly hard but really stunning. Plus you can approach the climb with 1-2 pitches of moderate slab if desired.

The guidebook you're looking for is Dreams of Switzerland produced by the Swiss Alpine Club, which has multipitch climbs in the alps of varying difficulty, mostly around 5.7-8 but up to low 5.10's. They're just incredible multipitch routes that show Switzerland at its best. I've got a copy and it's a very high quality publication to get your stoke up.

I also live in Luzern so drop a line if you're in the area and are looking for a partner.

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 740
Mark P. wrote: One of the best I've done is the Galtigenturme towers on Pilatus - 4 towers of moderate difficulty (5.4-5.7), with tremendous views of the Alps. Not terribly hard but really stunning. Plus you can approach the climb with 1-2 pitches of moderate slab if desired.

The guidebook you're looking for is Dreams of Switzerland produced by the Swiss Alpine Club, which has multipitch climbs in the alps of varying difficulty, mostly around 5.7-8 but up to low 5.10's. They're just incredible multipitch routes that show Switzerland at its best. I've got a copy and it's a very high quality publication to get your stoke up.

I also live in Luzern so drop a line if you're in the area and are looking for a partner.

Thanks Mark. This looks perfect.

T T Niranjan · · Mumbai Suburban · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,407
Mark P. wrote: I also live in Luzern so drop a line if you're in the area and are looking for a partner.

Hi Mark,

I would have a few days free in my second trip this summer, from 27 June to 15 July. If you are interested in a 3-4 day trip in that window during which we can do a few trial routes in Bregalia and depending on our comfort look at North ridge or Cassin route, we can discuss more over pm.

My first trip will be 20 May to 2 June, during which I will be doing a few trials keeping Cassin in mind and can update you on how that goes. Just need to be sure how the local grades work out for me before thinking of Cassin seriously.

Cheers,

TT
Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15
Mark P. wrote: 

The guidebook you're looking for is Dreams of Switzerland produced by the Swiss Alpine Club, which has multipitch climbs in the alps of varying difficulty, mostly around 5.7-8 but up to low 5.10's. They're just incredible multipitch routes that show Switzerland at its best. I've got a copy and it's a very high quality publication to get your stoke up.

I just ordered that book from Amazon, it looks great. Thanks for the tip!

Dante L · · Seattle · Joined May 2015 · Points: 15

Guidebook arrived today and it's fantastic, good topos and directions without giving to much beata, Makes me wish that I could spend more there

Mark P. · · Luzern, Schweiz · Joined May 2013 · Points: 680
Dante L wrote: Guidebook arrived today and it's fantastic, good topos and directions without giving to much beata, Makes me wish that I could spend more there

That's why it's called Dreams of Switzerland!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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