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My experience solo Aid Climbing with a GriGri and Micro-Trax


Original Post
Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 31
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 420

Oh my.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Investigate Klemhiest knots to prevent back feeding. 

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 31

Mark, I heard that its also possible to prussik hair ties to the rope to hold the rope taught. Then in the event of a fall, the hair ties break away. 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 420
Alec Sluser wrote:

Mark, I heard that its also possible to prussik hair ties to the rope to hold the rope taught. Then in the event of a fall, the hair ties break away. 

Yea that works, but why not use the Klemhiest with some thin cord like those who are experienced suggest? Trust me, using a Klemhiest is not just about back feeding, it's also about protecting sharp edges when you're cleaning the pitch; hair ties ain't going to cut it so the cutting is left to that dangerous love between a rock and the rope.


But seriously, hit me up and let's spend a day practicing your solo aid technique together. We live close by each other and seeing a full on system with explanations of why everything is done the way it's done is going to save a lot of bumbling about time that can better be focused upon gaining greater efficiency with the system that works (ie: for aid soloing with a Grigri there's no need to modify the grigri, there's no need whatsoever for your microtrax, and your system will work better using knots attached to your harness rather than pre-tied knots on the free end ahead of time - because in real life, those knots are going to get caught on a flake or a tree or a bolt or your pieces or something else and you're gunna have a bad time.) 

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 31

Hey Kevin, Im all for it. Ill shoot you a PM. Appreciate the advice. 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 420
Alec Sluser wrote:

Hey Kevin, Im all for it. Ill shoot you a PM. Appreciate the advice. 

I'm looking forward to it!

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456

I believe most folks in the Valley just use an unmodded grigri normally on their belay loop with backup knots for solo aid.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

The hair ties work for holding the rope while leading. I think they’ll break off when jugging the line. I’d rather not litter the route with their remains. 

Like Kevin said, you can work them so they protect the rope over edges.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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