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My experience solo Aid Climbing with a GriGri and Micro-Trax


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Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 31
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 435

Oh my.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Investigate Klemhiest knots to prevent back feeding. 

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 31

Mark, I heard that its also possible to prussik hair ties to the rope to hold the rope taught. Then in the event of a fall, the hair ties break away. 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 435
Alec Sluser wrote:

Mark, I heard that its also possible to prussik hair ties to the rope to hold the rope taught. Then in the event of a fall, the hair ties break away. 

Yea that works, but why not use the Klemhiest with some thin cord like those who are experienced suggest? Trust me, using a Klemhiest is not just about back feeding, it's also about protecting sharp edges when you're cleaning the pitch; hair ties ain't going to cut it so the cutting is left to that dangerous love between a rock and the rope.


But seriously, hit me up and let's spend a day practicing your solo aid technique together. We live close by each other and seeing a full on system with explanations of why everything is done the way it's done is going to save a lot of bumbling about time that can better be focused upon gaining greater efficiency with the system that works (ie: for aid soloing with a Grigri there's no need to modify the grigri, there's no need whatsoever for your microtrax, and your system will work better using knots attached to your harness rather than pre-tied knots on the free end ahead of time - because in real life, those knots are going to get caught on a flake or a tree or a bolt or your pieces or something else and you're gunna have a bad time.) 

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 31

Hey Kevin, Im all for it. Ill shoot you a PM. Appreciate the advice. 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 435
Alec Sluser wrote:

Hey Kevin, Im all for it. Ill shoot you a PM. Appreciate the advice. 

I'm looking forward to it!

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456

I believe most folks in the Valley just use an unmodded grigri normally on their belay loop with backup knots for solo aid.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

The hair ties work for holding the rope while leading. I think they’ll break off when jugging the line. I’d rather not litter the route with their remains. 

Like Kevin said, you can work them so they protect the rope over edges.

Manderson198 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 175

FWIW I use a DMM Rhino to attach my gri gri to my belay loop. All but eliminates biner cross-loading issues.

Dylan Valvo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

When aid climbing it's not hard to tie prussiks but it's a major pain free climbing. if back feeding occurs on long steep pitches I will clip two draws to a piece of gear one of which being an extended alpine that I tie a clove to and the other being a shorter length draw or locking biner which I will clip the rope through as I normally do. This allows me to do everything with one hand and still removes the factor 2 fall onto the piece of gear. Plus one for the previous comment in regards using something other than the standard aluminum biner for the attachment point of your grigri to avoid cross loading. I use a big ol steel malion if using a grigri. I also don't feel the need for any back up knots or other devices when using an unmodified grigri although I'm sure someone will scoff at this. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
kevin deweese wrote:

Yea that works, but why not use the Klemhiest with some thin cord like those who are experienced suggest? 

What thickness cord works best? 5mm? 
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Yes. Make a 24” sling.

Bennett G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

If you use a gri gri with back up knots, should you clip them in to your self or just let them hang?

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

I never let a knot hang.

Bennett G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Why?

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456

It's an Aid 101 problem - think it through...

Patrick Deliman · · Bear valley CA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 150
Bennett G wrote: Why?

Read Kevin's comment on this thread already been said 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 435
Bennett G wrote: If you use a gri gri with back up knots, should you clip them in to your self or just let them hang?

Knots are like balls, if you let them hang they can get caught on things and bad times result 

Manderson198 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 175
kevin deweese wrote:

Knots are like balls if you let them hand they can get caught on things and bad times result 

Such is life   

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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