Bouldering + Sport Climbing = SPOLDERING?

don'tchuffonme wrote:

I wish I was much stronger.  Then I could walk up to a 30 year old route, do a hard boulder traverse into the first bolt and call the whole thing an FA.  And have my sponsor make a high quality production of it. 

Meh, I mean, it's his job to make silly videos of him climbing stuff. I think he's paid some dues to get where he is. If you're jealous of someone's paycheck for being an American pro climber - you really shouldn't   

Long Ranger wrote:

Meh, I mean, it's his job to make silly videos of him climbing stuff. I think he's paid some dues to get where he is. If you're jealous of someone's paycheck for being an American pro climber - you really shouldn't   

Fair point I suppose.  The only thing I'm jealous of really is his skill.  He has definitely paid dues, and seems like a pretty humble and psyched individual- certainly not trying to come down on Paul, after all, he wasn't the one that claimed this was an FA in the first place.  

There's just something about the "flashing lights" nature of the SECOND ASCENT of a NEW ROUTE that really isn't new, and is essentially just a really hard boulder problem tacked onto a route, and peddled by a powerhouse manufacturer in the form of a high end vid doesn't sit well with me.  YMMV.

"Honestly the route looks really short so they should just grow a pair and climb it without a rope,"

Viper, gotta call you on this one.   It's not as short as you think, else it never would have been bolted.  Don't be ridiculous and start bagging on people for using a rope on a 40-foot hard ass climb.

I liked the video.  Pretty cool to climb a V14, and then pretty creative to go higher and start clipping bolts.   Sexy style, I say kudos.   

I imagine the climbers in the OP had a similar discussion as this thread.  they did a thing and had to decide what grade to name it.

so there was some back and forth... and much gnashing of teeth.  and they end up saying... 'well it's 14d' 

and here we are, with the back and forth..and the gnashing of teeth..

the cycle of life continues.  and the dudes didn't die.

---

meanwhile,  this is the future of climbing 

  GEAR! -whuhh.. Good God, Y'all..  what is it good for?  "absolutely nothing" ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxqR6iclHAU 

sans chalk bag enroute even.. a respectful move to the Nature, of not wanting to spray chalk

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2013/08/the-adventurey-report-alex-honnold-adds-sit-down-start-to-the-nose/

Alex Honnoldgod does it.

When you called The Roped part moderate but prehang your draws

Greg Shea wrote:

When you called The Roped part moderate but prehang your draws

Its not a true red point then right?

Greg Shea wrote:

When you called The Roped part moderate but prehang your draws

Can't boulder with draws on your harness.  It's bad form, dude.  

I love when they show him tying in. Is that a rope? Gasp!

don'tchuffonme wrote:Take the high grade off it for perspective.  What if some gumbo did a V5 traverse into a 5.8 that had been there for 30 years and called it a 5.11 FA?  They'd be laughed off the planet.  Especially if they made a video production of it.

That's how all of climbing works. If you climb 5.8 in a traditionally bolted area and there is a run-out, tough. Get better. 

If you climb 5.12 or higher, you can slam bolts as you please into your project. 

What's the big deal? It's called a "Link up".