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Bouldering + Sport Climbing = SPOLDERING?


Original Post
Sam Deshler · · Southern California · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 11

The future is now, people.



Matt B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 281

Bourt Climbing.

AJ Leiden · · Eau Claire, WI · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Sport bouldering is training for neither.

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476

Well, it's either that or fall and get really fucked up. Meh

Matt Wetmore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

Just check out Ali Hulk sit.

J Squared · · santa barbara, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

bouldering with a rope is a worldwide phenomenon! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thn3Y--qSGE 

J-- · · Southern California · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55

I always thought High Ball Bouldering was really just free soloing.  I guess the only difference is that in High Ball Bouldering the rock that makes up the cliff is obliviously not contiguous with the crust of the earth.  Not sure why that distinction matters to climbers.  The fall is the same...


J Squared · · santa barbara, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0
J-- wrote:

I always thought High Ball Bouldering was really just free soloing.  I guess the only difference is that in High Ball Bouldering the rock that makes up the cliff is obliviously not contiguous with the crust of the earth.  Not sure why that distinction matters to climbers.  The fall is the same...


well this really isn't about High Ball... its more just single pitch sport.. specifically for people who know that Staying Alive > High Balls


but still... the video in the OP highlights the obnoxious nature of putting dubstep on everything

Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

(PS: I'm just mad I could never climb that....)

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

So they are basically trying to take a 5.13 sport route. Saying there are holds you can't use for the logical path to the end of the route and making it a 5.14d?

Basically the same thing we would do at our gym. Start on a 5.9 route that is easy and take turns climbing it and taking away holds to make it harder until only one person sends... Just because you want to do a strange sit start over on the side that finishes on a 5.13 route's start holds you can reach from standing on the ground doesn't make it a 5.14d sport route. Your just climbing it wrong... I made a V3 problem outdoors into a V5 problem because I completely missed using a jug right before the topout but that still doesn't change the problem from V3 to V5.

I understand boulder problems have different starts to make them harder that is normal. However for sport routes there is no such thing as a start hold you stand at the bottom of the climb and you grab whatever you want. So start the video at around 3:15 and look where he is holding onto. If it is a 5.13 from that point to the top it isn't a 5.14d because that is where you can reach from standing on the ground and start.

Rob the tricam · · Springdale, Utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

I applaud this new and novel way to make everyone angry

climberish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
ViperScale . wrote:

So they are basically trying to take a 5.13 sport route. Saying there are holds you can't use for the logical path to the end of the route and making it a 5.14d?

Basically the same thing we would do at our gym. Start on a 5.9 route that is easy and take turns climbing it and taking away holds to make it harder until only one person sends... Just because you want to do a strange sit start over on the side that finishes on a 5.13 route's start holds you can reach from standing on the ground doesn't make it a 5.14d sport route. Your just climbing it wrong... I made a V3 problem outdoors into a V5 problem because I completely missed using a jug right before the topout but that still doesn't change the problem from V3 to V5.

I understand boulder problems have different starts to make them harder that is normal. However for sport routes there is no such thing as a start hold you stand at the bottom of the climb and you grab whatever you want. So start the video at around 3:15 and look where he is holding onto. If it is a 5.13 from that point to the top it isn't a 5.14d because that is where you can reach from standing on the ground and start.

right.... keep telling yourself that you have any idea what you are talking about... then at least there will be one person...

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 132
ViperScale . wrote:

So they are basically trying to take a 5.13 sport route. Saying there are holds you can't use for the logical path to the end of the route and making it a 5.14d?

Basically the same thing we would do at our gym. Start on a 5.9 route that is easy and take turns climbing it and taking away holds to make it harder until only one person sends... Just because you want to do a strange sit start over on the side that finishes on a 5.13 route's start holds you can reach from standing on the ground doesn't make it a 5.14d sport route. Your just climbing it wrong... I made a V3 problem outdoors into a V5 problem because I completely missed using a jug right before the topout but that still doesn't change the problem from V3 to V5.

I understand boulder problems have different starts to make them harder that is normal. However for sport routes there is no such thing as a start hold you stand at the bottom of the climb and you grab whatever you want. So start the video at around 3:15 and look where he is holding onto. If it is a 5.13 from that point to the top it isn't a 5.14d because that is where you can reach from standing on the ground and start.

I feel like you didn't actually watch the video. 

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
Alexander Blum wrote:

I feel like you didn't actually watch the video. 

Did you watch it he says it is a V14 boulder problem that leads into a 5.13 route. So just because you combine a V14 boulder problem which has a required start hold into a 5.13 route that doesn't have a fixed starting holds doesn't make the route a 5.14d.

But is this an actual boulder problem that you climb up and drop off or is this just what he is called trying to make starting holds for the route like they do in gyms?

Honestly the route looks really short so they should just grow a pair and climb it without a rope, I have climbed 30ft V5 that were probably very similar in that the V5 ends really low and some people just drop off but the last part that goes to the top is only V2 / V3. I have climbed higher routes free solo maybe much easier  but not really by choice but you know things happen.

Slogger · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 80

I think his partner clipping the rope into his harness constitutes an A0 rating as well.

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
Slogger wrote:

I think his partner clipping the rope into his harness constitutes an A0 rating as well.

I didn't understand that the holds around the first bolt look pretty easy. So why not just climb up the easy part and climb the rope into the first bolt so when he gets to the first bolt he just unclips the rope from it and clips it to himself... that or just tie in like all the normal people in the world and climb the boulder problem with the rope clipped in. Is this entire boulder + sport climbing because he didn't clip in until he was successful in finishing the boulder problem?

That and even dave graham's video of him climbing it has 1 person who I guess is belaying, 1 person who clips in the rope (may be the same as belayer just without the atc on when he gets the rope on),  and 1 person who puts his chalk bag on him when he gets to the end of the boulder problem. Sorry but just start the climb with the rope tied in and the chalk bag on geee.

You know what I think would be really good. I need to find someone who will carry my climbing rack up next to me and give me the piece that I need when climbing trad!

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 6

Looks like the right path to fully climb that piece of rock. 

Tapawingo Markey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

Looks like sport climbing to me. 

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
splitclimber wrote:

Looks like the right path to fully climb that piece of rock. 

That isn't how sport climbs work. Someone can correct me if they know of one but I don't know of any sport climbs that requires traversing before you get 5ft off the ground over to other holds than start climbing up. I understand bouldering works that way but sport climbing generally starts at a location and you grab whatever hold you can reach. If this boulder problem was required to reach holds that could not be reached anywhere else it would make sense but your climbing a boulder problem into other holds (which must be part of the route) that you can reach from standing on the ground... makes no sense.

Maybe we need to start going back to all the trad and sport routes out there and take pictures of the holds your hands must be on to start it properly...

Simon W · · Nowhere Land · Joined May 2013 · Points: 70

Nevermind the fact that the name of the climb is offensive to kooks everywhere...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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