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Super Soft Lace Ups?

Original Post
Craig Manahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

I want to try out some super soft shoes, but my feet get really sweaty so slipper type shoes don't feel very secure, even multiple velcro straps are a little wobbly. Are there any super soft shoes that are also lace-ups? Most of the lace ups seem to be stiffer. Sportiva's fit my feet best so that is what I have been looking at mostly. I think that the Genius and Testarossa are a little soft, but I was wondering if there was anything softer out there. Thanks

J Squared · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

scarpa Instinct  /thread ;)  the genius is pretty soft tho...

Anson Call · · Reno, NV · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 45

Scarpa Chimera, if you have lots of $$$

Kevin Ross · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Softest lace-ups I've ever worn are the Tenaya Tarifa. Highly recommend!

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

alternatively, you could deal with the sweat problem. Try applying anti-perspirant to your feet-- certain-dri works very well for my hands, I'm sure it would work equally well on feet: 

https://www.certaindri.com/

best

matt

Dana Walters 1 · · Pacific Northwest · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 187

Evolv oracle 

Joe Petroske · · North Bend, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 65

I really like 5.10 anasazi guide if you can find a pair in your size... Great trad shoe. I like just almost as much TC Pros and if you wait/look around you can find them extremely cheap

Craig Manahan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Thanks for the suggestions. However, all of the reviews I see for the above shoes mention that they are "moderately" stiff, or something similar. They all have some sort of midsole as far as I can tell compared to the true super soft slippers, which all have no midsole at all. Chimera and Instinct look the softest with 1mm midsole. Are there any lace ups with no midsole? I guess the laces probably provide some stiffness so most manufacturers figure they might as well put a midsole in?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,027

LaS Mythos

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Mythos are soft but do have a midsole, Scarpa Helix is similar

Testarossas (personal fave) are very soft in the midfoot and heel but stiff in the forefoot (though still quite flexible), similar to the Instinct

Miura Laces probably have some kind of midsole but they're very flexible throughout, try the women's if you're <= EU43

Genius is ever so slightly stiffer than the ultra-soft Futura but definitely the softest lace-up I have direct experience with

Chimera is based on the Drago which was based on the Furia which has no midsole at all... specs say it has one but I bet it's one of the softest lace-ups out there if you can stomach the price

Mikekd · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Evolv use to make the Defy as a lace-up - they were inexpensive and became really soft. Maybe the Nighthawk is comparable? Regardless, I feel like shoes branded as "for beginners or gyms" tend to be on the softer side. Then again they may be least durable..

Ahram Park · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 5

Five ten stone land lace ups are the softest of the stone land line. I own a pair and yes they are very soft. 

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Lots of shoes mentioned are pretty damn stiff. I’d use instinct laces for thin vertical edging.

Noah’s advice for testes or chimeras is spot on. The chimera should be a tad softer with only 3.5 vs 4mm on the testes. Friend has the chimera and compared it to skwama stiffness wise.

Mid sole will make each stiffer than slippers though. I used a drago on one foot and testarossa on the other on rock the other night. Drago is definitely more sensitive, but MUCH softer. The testes were more confidence inspiring on small edges, but dragos are incredibly sensitive. 

What kind of rock and angle are you climbing? 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 232

One I haven’t seen mentioned is the Dragons.  They’re supposed to be fairly soft, no?

Greg Koeppen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 16

second vote for the new Evolv Oracle, it is a brand new shoe only been on the market for like 2 months.  My climbing gym has had two evolv shoe demo days since then and they are great. purchased a pair last week for 20% off got to love shoe demo days!

Go Back to Super Topo · · Back of my truck · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 260

Dragons and Chimeras are the only soft lace ups I can think of. 

Scarpa instincts are NOT soft comparatively. I wouldn't call them soft in any regard personally. 

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

My Sportiva Finale started out as a regular shoe, but got super soft after maybe 100-200 pitches or so. Really nice for smearing (and foot sole massage therapy).

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Scarpa Chimera, i found a pair for 50% off. love em. fantastic shoe for steep climbing.

Gizmo · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

See if you can find a pair if 5.10 coyote lace ups. They're discontinued, but were an entry level shoe, single layer leather body and soft rubber. Fit like a glove. 

Otherwise, get a pair of mythos and break them in. I've resoled mine three times now, hope I never have to buy new ones!

Zachary Rahe · · Stow, Ohio · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

5.10 dragons are super soft

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Adding two to the list:
Five Ten Gambit Lace - not a high performance shoe by any means, but it is definitely soft
Five Ten Quantum - this started out as a stiff shoe but after a few days of use has turned into a very soft shoe, about like Skwamas. Very comfortable too.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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