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Farley Conditions

Original Post
Curtis Tripp · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 732

Has anyone been out to Farley recently? How much dry/climbable rock should I expect this weekend with all the precip and snowmelt we've had lately?

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 36

I'm told there was no snow out there for the past week, so should be just the usual spring runoff. Next week looking to reach into the 50s. WEML should have the usual climbable routes, everything else will probably be damp.

Curtis Tripp · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 732

Thanks, Zach!

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

I took a hike out there Monday and there was still plenty of snow, though we got nothing from the storm this week.

Snow had melted back from the top of the cliff but covered the tops of  the boulders.   Plenty of dry roped things this weekend if it stays cool as forecast. If it really warms up next week there will be some runoff.  Boulders not looking as good but still things to do.

John Stoneham · · taunton ma · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 10

Hi, just wondering if anybody head out today(3/31) and how was it? Thanks.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295
  • Very good conditions yesterday.
Jon Guczek · · Eureka, CA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 25

Hey everyone,

I just stumbled upon this thread after writing up a post  on the partner finder. Anyone have advice for finding a partner for Farley ? I grew up in Springfield, learned to climb in NH and now live in CA. I'm going to be making the trip to Western MA to visit family and it would be awesome to get some pitches in and check out the local crag that I really didn't know about until l stopped living there. Are people out there every weekend ? Any info ( or leads on someone to climb with) would be great.



Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Hi Jon, When will you be visiting? I live 'just down the road' from Farley in Amherst, so I'm up there pretty frequently and often show visitors around, so would be happy to do so for you. However I am still employed, so usually only available on weekends. Otherwise there are usually some folks around on most nice days during the week (and plenty on the weekends), and many seem willing to share belays if asked politely. In case you do head up there solo, you can get directions from the Western Mass Climbers Coalition website ( From our lot (fills up very early--around 8:30 these days--on weekends) head straight uphill to the Wall of Morning Light--this is the most popular area and is a morning sun trap. Mostly sport routes from (easy) 5.9 up and a few trad. Just down and left (facing the crag) is a slab with a couple of easy sport routes and a couple of trad as well, and further left is the Bat Cave area with another collection of good routes. If you go right at the signed junction on the trail 5 minutes above the lot and then take the next junction up--a minute further, you will reach the Zen Garden--mostly trad and (just right) Pooh Buttress--mostly sport--both with routes from about 5.7 up. Further right for quite a ways is off limits due to peregrines until mid-June. You can reach me directly at   Alan Rubin

Jorden Kass · · Belmont, MA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Alan has a bunch of great info. Just an update, the website is (not .com)

Jeffrey LeCours · · New Hampshire · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,200

Awkward. The link Jorden provided is also not quite right. Make sure to visit the url using "http" instead of "https":

Magnifique · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Was out there yesterday, a lot of stuff was dry. It flurried later in the day, but not too heavily. Will probably be dry by later this week.

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 740

Anyone got the recent update? Trying to decide to drive 3 hours or not for Farley tomorrow

Alan Emery · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 251

Check the weather ... it doesn't look good.

yosem1te · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 25

Anyone been to Farley recently?  Never been before, so I'm not sure how fast it dries out.  Worth the trip this weekend with this week's rain?

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

I was there on Tues afternoon and much of it was fine. Certain areas, such as Main Slab and Courthouse were wet, but they almost invariably are in spring. Bat Cave, Morning Light (directly above the parking lot), Zen, Pooh were all fine. Upper Tier was likely wet in places, dry in others. So far it hasn't rained too hard today in Northampton--about 30 miles south, but not sure about up there. If rain stops, as predicted, early this evening, Morning Light and Bat Cave are out of the trees and get morning sun so should be dry. Zen and Pooh are more in the trees, but still no foliage so might be OK--definitely they are a bit slower to dry. So probably OK tomorrow and I know folks are planning on heading up there--despite chance of pm showers.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

I live 10 minutes away.  We got a small amount of rain.  Forecast is cloudy early, sunny late.  Black flies are out at my house but not biting yet. It won't be perfect but plenty of things to climb, get there early if you want good parking.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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