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Descending a weighted rope


Original Post
Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

There you are, at the rappel station.  A meteor or pterodactyl or gumby decides to incapacitate your partner that is rappelling  right before they get to the ground, but they are still hanging on the rope due to a prussik backup they heard they needed through MP.  No one else is around (the gumby left).  Besides down-prussiking the rope, how do you descend?

We're gunna die

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 334

How big was the meteor? Was it a pterodactyl, or a pteranodon? Did Gumby have Pokey with him? I need more information.

ikmortu · · People's Republic of Chicago · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 5

If the Gumby has left you can either get a ride down from the pterodactyl or down climb the meteor... Duh!

Fan Yang · · Boston, MA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 25

a shunt would be great in this instance...

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Andrew Krajnik wrote:

How big was the meteor? Was it a pterodactyl, or a pteranodon? Did Gumby have Pokey with him? I need more information.

Same size as the shit ball in Joe Dirt

Don't know. I'm an engineer, not Dennis Nedry.

Gumby is as Gumby does.

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,108
Ryan Swanson wrote:

...Besides down-prussiking the rope, how do you descend?

Probably your best (maybe only) option assuming you don't have another rope and/or don't want to haul your partner up to you.

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 334
Ryan Swanson wrote:

Same size as the shit ball in Joe Dirt

Don't know. I'm an engineer, not Dennis Nedry.

Gumby is as Gumby does.

Based on the above responses, I'd recommend Sylvester Stallone's bolt gun from Cliffhanger.

If you don't have one of those, you'll probably have to down-prussik.

SeƱor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10



jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Downclimbing?  I'm not too sure how else to get out of this scenario.  Prusiks using anchor cord would be a good solution (much to Tut's chagrin).

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Do you folks always have cord or slings for friction hitches when doing sport multi-pitch?  

I was thinking about highly unlikely scenarios that we don't plan for due to the insanely low probability of occurrence.  Nonetheless, there is a very remote chance that one might need to get down a rope that is weighted, so rather than be hard at work, I'm thinking about how to escape this situation.

Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 65

Cut the rope

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Ryan Maitland wrote:

Cut the rope

Now you have no rope, and nothing to hang yourself with 

Mike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10

Assuming only sport draws and a belay device. Depending on your partners weight/climb angle you could potentially struggle down the rope after getting your belay device on using some pulley system built from quickdraws. 

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Ryan Swanson wrote:

Do you folks always have cord or slings for friction hitches when doing sport multi-pitch?  

I was thinking about highly unlikely scenarios that we don't plan for due to the insanely low probability of occurrence.  Nonetheless, there is a very remote chance that one might need to get down a rope that is weighted, so rather than be hard at work, I'm thinking about how to escape this situation.

Oh I missed sport multi-pitch.  I was thinking trad.  I usually carry two 60 cm nylon slings for cleaning anchors but that would be pain to descend with because they aren't long enough for a stirrup.  If I were doing a multipitch sport route in an alpine environment, I would probably carry 6mm cord in case a belay escape is in order.


jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Ryan Swanson wrote:

Now you have no rope, and nothing to hang yourself with 

Hang? Take your life into your own hands and jump!

Mike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10
jg fox wrote:

Oh I missed sport multi-pitch.  I was thinking trad.  I usually carry two 60 cm nylon slings for cleaning anchors but that would be pain to descend with because they aren't long enough for a stirrup.  If I were doing a multipitch sport route in an alpine environment, I would probably carry 6mm cord in case a belay escape is in order.


Chain draws together to make a extension for your stirrup. (I hope your partner doesnt also have all of the gear). 

trailridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20

Pull a Joe Simpson. When in doubt cut the rope. 

Mike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10
trailridge wrote:

Pull a Joe Simpson. When in doubt cut the rope. 

Perfect someone will see your partner deck and come to rescue you as well.

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
jg fox wrote:

Hang? Take your life into your own hands and jump!

dank

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Mike13 wrote:

Chain draws together to make a extension for your stirrup. (I hope your partner doesnt also have all of the gear). 

Ok you need two hitches and material for a stirrup, what are you carrying?

Mike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 10
jg fox wrote:

Ok you need two hitches and material for a stirrup, what are you carrying?

About 8 draws a couple shoulder length slings or at minimum one double. If youre creative you can make one hitch at each end of the double. Connect draws into a chain. Only really need one stirrup to go down.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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