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JOSHUA TREE: THE BOLTING PRESSURE COOKER


Original Post
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Oh no, they are placing bolts on rappel.  Someone call Jim Beyer so he can steal the hangers and brag about it in Alpinist magazine.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
jg fox wrote:

Oh no, they are placing bolts on rappel.  Someone call Jim Beyer so he can steal the hangers and brag about it in Alpinist magazine.

Yea, not really sure about the whole point of having a website about it. 

Love the new profile pic btw.

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Tradiban wrote:

Yea, not really sure about the whole point of having a website about it. 

Love the new profile pic btw.

Thanks; #freepharmabro

nbrown · · western NC --> Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,496

Where can I get one of those "hand-cranked drills"?

MisterE Wolfe · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 3,847

Tip of the iceberg *ahem*

Hamish Malin · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15

“Everyone is looking for balance”.  I call bs.  Love my sport climbs, but with 6000+ routes in Josh, both trad and sport, there’s no need for a paradigm shift.  It’s ok to leave some unclimbable routes for the next generation.

<insert harrumph here>

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Tradiban wrote:

Supertopo is on the case!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3069023/From-MP-JOSHUA-TREE-THE-BOLTING-PRESSURE-COOKER

Healyje is so unoriginal, steals Tradiban’s thread ideas and takes them back to the retirement home at Supertopo.

I suppose some people can’t be winners like Tradiban is.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,649

Buckle up.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
jg fox wrote:

Healyje is so unoriginal, steals Tradiban’s thread ideas and takes them back to the retirement home at Supertopo.

I suppose some people can’t be winners like Tradiban is.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

BRegan · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 120

Rock is a non-renewable resource.  Bolt holes are forever.  There are probably over 30,000 bolts already in Joshua Tree National Park - both in the Wilderness/backcountry and the frontcountry.  Most of these never get clipped after the FA, a lot of them on the old routes are the original bolts that were forged in climbers' garages.  Please consider replacing an old route before creating new ones.  While there is no comprehensive list of established climbs in Joshua Tree - there are rumors that we have over 10,000 named routes.  

FYI - 20 permits to use powerdrills in the park were issued in the last year.  Primarily, this was permitted to make it easier to REPLACE climbing bolts, but a few of them permitted the placement of new bolts in the frontcountry.  Each of these permits took less than a month to get the OK for.  

There are a few folks in the JTree community that have donated countless hours of their time and money to replacing bolts.  If you see these guys out there, please thank them.  They replaced over 500 bolts last year alone.  You'll know they've been on the route you are climbing if you see ASCA stamped on the stainless steel bolt hanger.  

Powerdrill and bolting info is on the park website:  https://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/fixed_anchors.htm

Any other questions, please email me at bernadette_regan@nps.gov


Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
BRegan wrote:

Rock is a non-renewable resource.  Bolt holes are forever.  There are probably over 30,000 bolts already in Joshua Tree National Park - both in the Wilderness/backcountry and the frontcountry.  Most of these never get clipped after the FA, a lot of them on the old routes are the original bolts that were forged in climbers' garages.  Please consider replacing an old route before creating new ones.  While there is no comprehensive list of established climbs in Joshua Tree - there are rumors that we have over 10,000 named routes.  

FYI - 20 permits to use powerdrills in the park were issued in the last year.  Primarily, this was permitted to make it easier to REPLACE climbing bolts, but a few of them permitted the placement of new bolts in the frontcountry.  Each of these permits took less than a month to get the OK for.  

There are a few folks in the JTree community that have donated countless hours of their time and money to replacing bolts.  If you see these guys out there, please thank them.  They replaced over 500 bolts last year alone.  You'll know they've been on the route you are climbing if you see ASCA stamped on the stainless steel bolt hanger.  

Powerdrill and bolting info is on the park website:  https://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/fixed_anchors.htm

Any other questions, please email me at bernadette_regan@nps.gov


Does the permit itself distinguish between being for replacement alone or new bolts?

10,000 routes, 200 worth climbing.


jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Tradiban wrote:

Does the permit itself distinguish between being for replacement alone or new bolts?

10,000 routes, 200 worth climbing.


Sounds like they need your highly regarded retro-development skills: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113940247/retro-development-in-idyllwild


Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
jg fox wrote:

Sounds like they need your highly regarded retro-development skills: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113940247/retro-development-in-idyllwild


The retro-development rule would be a good law to live by in Jtree! Maybe it would help quell these guy's FA fever.

BRegan · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 120
Tradiban wrote:

Does the permit itself distinguish between being for replacement alone or new bolts?

10,000 routes, 200 worth climbing.


Yes, when a request is made to use a power drill - the requester indicates whether it is for new or replaced bolts.  For example, a permit was issued recently for the Varnished Wall at Indian Cove.  The requester wanted to 1) replace the bolts on the existing routes 2) drill a new rap anchor to replace all the tattered webbing around the loose block.  The request was evaluated by our Cultural, Physical Science (air and water), Wildlife, Vegetation, and Climbing Ranger.  They looked at rock art, rare plants, nesting raptors, air/water impacts and the option of a walk-off. No conflicts were found and both requests were OK'd.  JTNP manages the use of power drills and the potential impacts to the surrounding environment.  JTNP does not manage climbing ethics.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,445
BRegan wrote:

Yes, when a request is made to use a power drill - the requester indicates whether it is for new or replaced bolts.  For example, a permit was issued recently for the Varnished Wall at Indian Cove.  The requester wanted to 1) replace the bolts on the existing routes 2) drill a new rap anchor to replace all the tattered webbing around the loose block.  The request was evaluated by our Cultural, Physical Science (air and water), Wildlife, Vegetation, and Climbing Ranger.  They looked at rock art, rare plants, nesting raptors, air/water impacts and the option of a walk-off. No conflicts were found and both requests were OK'd.  JTNP manages the use of power drills and the potential impacts to the surrounding environment.  JTNP does not manage climbing ethics.

So to be clear you need a permit to power drill in order to replace and or put up a new route?

But with a hand drill you don't need a permit to do either of those?

Ocalslay Onlyyay · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,170
Tradiban wrote:

200 worth climbing.


might be a little high

Perry Norris · · Truckee · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

It's a national park. It's not a gym.  This will back fire on all climbers.

Peter T · · New Joisey · Joined May 2016 · Points: 10

Does this mean the bolt on double cross will be replaced?

Chad N · · Central California · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,842

BRegan, always spot on. Thanks for your input and service to the community. 

Replace bad bolts. Bring oneself up to Jtree’s level by learning the skills required. 

Plenty of ‘new school’ climbs at ‘new school’ areas like New Jack, Malibu Cr., Mission Gorge. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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