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Looking for boot recommendations for Canadian Rockies

Original Post
Jordan Tamborine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Hey after trying to search for some results online and finding next to no info. I was wondering what boot people suggest for the following in the Canadian Rockies (Banff, Jasper, kananaskis, icefields parkway)

Its mainly for summer alpine and glacier travel. A few examples are mt lefroy, Edith Cavell, Victoria, Andromeda and Athabasca.

But if I could get a boot that won't be too warm in the summer that can still be used for shoulder seasons that'd be great. 

So far I was thinking the LS Nepal Evo or Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX Pro

What do you use for summer and/or shoulder seasons?

FosterK · · Edmonton, AB · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 43

Both of those boots will be sufficient, but definitely warm in the heat of the summer. I use the MBP for mild winter climbing, and spring/fall mountaineering, and a lighter summer mountaineering boot everything else.

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 157

To echo FosterK, those boots might be a little warm for what you are looking for. Take a look at the LS Trango Cube GTX. I have the previous iteration and love it for spring/summer/fall use. It approaches and climbs well. I switch to something else for steep ice/mixed though. 

FosterK · · Edmonton, AB · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 43

Just to add to my post count, it can be very cold during shoulder seasons (May is still good ski weather, and ice climbs may be forming by October), so I don't think you're going to find a single boot solution that is warm enough for shoulder seasons without being too warm in summer.

Jordan Tamborine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Just what I needed to hear FosterK. Looks like 2 boots will be the answer.

Bogdan P · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 353

Mont Blanc Pro isn't that warm (the Mont Blanc GTX is slightly warmer). I used it for summer alpine climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif, and it was perfect. Also used it for one season ice climbing and it's solid down to 20F. Questionable below 10F. Should get you through the shoulder seasons if you're not ice climbing though, and be suitable as an ice boot on warmer days.

What you really want if you go the two boot route is something like a la sportiva trango though (more nimble on rock) and then a proper ice boot like the Mont Blanc GTX (not pro) or Nepal Evo, and keep your climbing days to >0F. That'll give you room to grow and expand into the winter season as you gain experience.

David M · · Nashville, TN · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

If you're going to have one boot, I don't see how there could be much argument against the Mont Blanc (I've worn GTX's, only handled Pros, but they sure seemed similar enough) or whatever the equivalent Nepal is (LS's Evo/Cube/Ice Cube/Icy Hot/Hot and Spicy labeling is confusing). Or Baturas, or old Phantom Guides (but not Techs because of the marked loss in durability). Or any of the many other equivalent boots from companies like Lowa, Mammut, Kayland, etc. There's lots.

I don't think I could justify buying a light boot like the Trango without first owning an all-rounder.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Both of those boots are overkill for the mountains you mentioned in summer.  I have climbed most all the mountains in the Canadian Rockies with either approach shoes/high tops or Trango's at most.  What you will do for sure is destroy whatever boot you have on your feet via the many scree descents.  If money is no issue, no worries, but those boots you mentioned will also cost you in comfort, xtra weight and pain (blisters, etc) for the miles you need to travel when doing Canadian Rockies routes.  Good luck on your trip.

David M · · Nashville, TN · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I feel like a pair of Nepals or Mont Blancs is certainly not a waste of money? Their soles are absurdly beefy, and most people that manage to kill them are still able to send them out for a resole or otherwise have them repaired as necessary. Approach shoes and tech hikers are made like sneakers- throwaways. Which seems significant when you factor in that a lot of them still cost $200+ a pair.

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,283

I use the rebel pro gtx for summer alpine in the Canadian Rockies and love them. Not too warm, climb rock at a moderate level just fine and full heal and toe welts for all crampon options. 

Now, can’t wait for the Ribelle tech to land in the US for my next Canadian trip. Those will be perfect for so many routes up there. 

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,187

The boots are warm for just summer but are fine for all round as the one boot in your closet. Dow makes a very point about what to wear on a approach. If anymore than a half day before hitting snow an approach shoe is certainly worth while. That said todays boots are quite comfortable.

Gabe B. · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 86

Jon, looks like campsaver is stocking them. Post a review once you get some?

Eric Roe · · Spokane · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

I'm looking for almost the exact same thing, except I'm a little further south, in the cascades.  Like OP, I want a three season boot for stuff like the enchantments, Washington pass approaches, Silverstar glacier, etc.  I run pretty hot usually (read: I sweat like a pig), so I tend toward the lightweight side.  Needs to handle crampons reasonably well, toe welt optional.  I'm 100% not planning on climbing ice with these, just moderate-ish snow.  I'd prefer lightweight over durable.

I've heard good things about La Sportiva Trango Cube's, Salewa Rapace, but the threads I was able to pull up are all a few years old.  The Nepals and Mont Blancs mentioned are way too beefy.

Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

For a good summer, non technical climbing boot I love my salewea crow boots.  They are 3/4 shank boots so very comfy to hike in but keep your feet from getting wrecked on rock.  I sized up a bit and can wear super heavy socks with them for cold weather, but below 15 degrees they are marginal and I often have to hike with a parka on to keep my feet warm.  I would not take them on a big mountain or multiday winter trip as they are not warm enough and would be a frostbite risk

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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