Mountain Project Logo

Experienced climber wanted, Wildlife Refuge


Original Post
JustinMCawood Cawood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 20

Two friends and I have been climbing for a bit (little over year and half maybe).  I just did my first lead on Mr. Clean a 5.8 on Mount Scott.  What I'm really looking for is someone that has lots of experience with cams.  Every time I placed one they always seemed to walk.  So, just resorted to nuts.  Just need someone to follow to see what I'm doing wrong.  That and the amount of pro you need for a route.  Thanks for your time. 

txclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Generally, if your cams are walking it's because you didn't extend them and should have.  Lot's of climbs in the Wichitas wander quite a bit, making this worse.  Get a bunch of shoulder link slings and put them on all your placements and I bet you see improvement.


Ty Gittins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 70

I'm interested in climbing in the refuge Friday afternoon and Saturday morning if you care to get out. Send me a message if interested

Billy Goat · · Wasatch · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 100

Congratulations on your first trad lead! It's definitely something to be proud of. 

People like to talk about cams and parallel cracks. While it's the place to use them, something I find useful is to look for a section with irregularities, kind of like looking for a nut placement inside that parallel crack. If they are above and/or behind the cam, these usually help prevent the cam from walking.

Slings like txclimbers said also can help.

It sounds like you do, but do you test them when you place them? If I pick a cam that is more tightly cammed than looser, and place it around irregularities, it tends not to walk when I test it. If it does and I still like the placement, I'll throw a sling on it.

JustinMCawood Cawood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 20

Ty, sent a pm. Can definitely make it out Friday afternoon.

JustinMCawood Cawood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 20

Thanks everyone for the input. I have slings, just not enough caribeeners for the alpine slings. I have practiced placing while top roping and usually give them a yank or two.  They don't seem to walk and hold. But, my second, wiggled it right out.  That's my only worry. 

Doug Hoyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined 21 days ago · Points: 0
JustinMCawood Cawood wrote:

Thanks everyone for the input. I have slings, just not enough caribeeners for the alpine slings. 

That is really not a good reason.  If you don't have what you need to safely climb a route,  then delay till you have what you need.  Sometimes we encounter an unexpected situation, and we have to make do,  but not having enough carabiners to properly set protection does not fall under that circumstance....

Jack Ass · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 130
Doug Hoyle wrote:

That is really not a good reason.  If you don't have what you need to safely climb a route,  then delay till you have what you need.  Sometimes we encounter an unexpected situation, and we have to make do,  but not having enough carabiners to properly set protection does not fall under that circumstance....

Give the guy a break. Not everyone is rich like you 


Make sure the stems of the cams are in the direction of the fall, usually the same direction you climb. That will reduce the movement of the rope through the banners. Also, if you have a lot of drag rope/friction in the system will transfer to the cams and make them walk. Unless it is caused by a roof or corner. 
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply to "Experienced climber wanted, Wildlife Refuge"
in the Midwest

Log In to Reply