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moderate long routes in RR with minimal obligatory jamming

Original Post
Sergey Shelukhin · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

We are going to RR and want to climb long routes. However I don't like crack climbing, as in jamming (I'm ok with stemming, laybacking, OW, etc.; but I'd prefer 25' runouts to having a handcrack). 

What would be good climbs to do in RR, in 8-~10+ range for face climbing? There's PoD and Unimpeachable Groping; then, I was looking at:

  • Crimson Chrysalis
  • Power Failure
  • Inti Watana
  • Ringtail
  • Eagle Dance 

Is it a good set of routes? The hardest parts of most of these are bolted, implying they are not pure cracks, but I wonder how much obligatory crack climbing there is on sections that are. Any other routes like this?

Aside: please don't suggest I should like it, that belongs in a separate discussion :) I've tried it many times in many places leading and following, and also my joints (wrists, fingers) can get inflamed easily from it. So I want to minimize obligatory jamming even if some is unavoidable, or climb routes where I can do harder moves to skip it.

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 132

Your list looks pretty good. I would say that if jamming is hard on your joints, that's legitimate. A good way to mitigate that is to learn how to french free & crack jumar by pulling on gear, so you don't need to skip out on otherwise classic routes that have a middling amount of jamming on them.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

If it's under 5.10, there is very little mandatory jamming on any route in the park, if any.

In the 5.10 range, it's rare, but not as uncommon. Usually if there is, there are face options for feet to take the edge off. Anything on the black velvet wall should be fine, and all the routes you listed. 

Pure crack climbing is not the norm in red rock and true splitters are quite rare here.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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