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Scarps Instinct Opinions

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Michael Hase · · San Jose, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 506

What are your thought as on the Scarpa Instinct VS or lace?

Gabe B. · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 86

Lace for sport, VS for boulder/sport. I like them both. In an ideal world, I would have Lace, VS, VSR.

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

I wish they made the vsr in my size.  Seems like it’s only a women’s shoe with the limited offerings.  My most aggressively fitted shoes are a 44.  The VSR doesn’t go that big

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,095

I only have the VS, and I love them.  Aggressive, a bit of stiffness, my small heel doesn't lift out, my fairly wide ball of my foot doesn't feel massacred after a couple of climbs.  The only downside for me is price.

Baba Fats · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

My last post was a bit one sided.  I also have the VS.  just got them resoled with the softer rubber that I wish they had from the beginning.  They are fantastic.  Same review as the above post.  I’ll add that, compared to the lace version, the VS is pretty damn soft and flexible.  Forms to your foot in no time

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

I have found the heel on my VSR's a bit slippery for slippery or marginal heel hooks, the toe hooking is okay though nothing to rave about and they don't feel very aggressive as far as performance shoes go.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

One word: versatile.

Especially for diverse types of movements/techniques/foot holds: toe/heel hooking, edging/smedging (never tried crack climbing, though I imagine it'd works better than most downturned shoes).

If I can only take 1 pair for a boulder or sport route I know nothing about, it'll be a pair of instinct lace/VS.

Yes, the heel cup is a bit shallow and the slingshot rand not overly aggressive so certain types of heel hook doesn't feel as secure (for the velcro versions), but combined w/ a fairly modest downturn, means you get a lot more effective ankle ROM. The less asymmetric shape and relatively stiff sole makes back stepping on thin holds fairly secure.

Ghost · · Burlington, VT · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 102

I've found the lace to be a bit stiffer and do well on techy faces, while the VS's are a bit softer and tend to be more a home when things get steep or in the gym.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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