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Winter Mountaineering climb on Nisi Peak (Arête of Chelmos/Aroania)

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John Olympus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

We are already in beginning of March and the short winter mountaineering season in Greece will be concluded in about a month from now. Therefore, for this climb, we have decided to do a more demanding winter mountaineering ascent in the non-famous peak of Nisi (paradoxically the meaning of Nisi in Greek is “island), which is located nearby Lake Doxa, and is actually the beginning of the famous alpine route “Arête of Chelmos“.

Feel free to read full Trip Report, with many photos, maps and details here:

Nisi is the first high peak of the Arête of Chelmos” route and the highest point is at 2.042 meters above sea level. It has a very steep ridgeline and there are 2 main ways in order to reach the peak. The first option is to hike up from Lake Doxa towards the “hunter’s col“. This is the same route that also leads to Mount Pentelia a.k.a. Dourdouvana and is a beautiful and relatively easy route. The second option is to start from the Monastery of St. George, which is located on a beautiful plateau overlooking Lake Doxa, and to each the “Madero Col“. From St. George Monastery till “Madero Col” the route is rather easy crossing small creeks, a beautiful pine forest and parts of a local dirt road.

After several kilometres of easy hike and more demanding mountaineering ascent, it was about time to get ready for the exciting part of reaching Nisi peak via the steep East-Face of the mountain. From the east face of the mountain, one can see numerous of lines via easier or more demanding couloirs.

As first step, we had to use the proper equipment. First of all, we had to use an Ice Axe, helmet, a harness, a Mammut 9.7 mm 60 meters climbing rope, a series of carabiners, laniards and of course we also had mountaineering snow pickets/anchors. For some people in our group that would be the first time they would try to do such a climb and therefore the more experienced members of the team had to assure everyone that the conditions were rather good. The two experience climbers were one in the lead of the climb and the other was as last in order make sure everyone could follow with no issues.

The terrain was rather steep and in some parts of the climb the steepness reach 68%. From the other side, due to the time of the day and the sun above us, we did not find ice, but rather “neve”. That was a bit of a worry part, because we had to be very aware of  avalanches. We were climbing far above 45-50 degrees and the previous days there was a heavy snowfall on that mountain. The one that was leading was always checking the snow conditions and as trying to motivate the rest of the team in order to move as fast as possible so we could avoid any avalanche issues.

On our way up to the Nisi ridge, we also had to mix climb in parts of rock and slightly icy snow and that made the whole adventure even more interesting, exciting, difficult and a bit more dangerous. Nevertheless, the whole team performed great and every single moment the situation was under control.

Feel free to read full Trip Report, with many photos, maps and details here:


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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