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Organ Mountains, The Psycho

Original Post
Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

Mike Mcgoey and I did it in 1970, and for the time, I guess it was an achievement. In the canyon on the right side of Gertch's Folly in the Organs was the overhanging wall of the Psycho. The challenge was that with 150 ft ropes, retreat from the route was impossible after the first pitch. Now, that is a sobering thought!  We started the climb in 60 degree weather, and I remember thinking that everything was perfect. It was one of those rare days when everything just fell into place... I felt fantastic, and everything was positive. We climbed with "Robbins Boots", which were the top of the line at the time, but would be compared to average hiking boots nowadays. I rated it 5.9 and A4... had one bitch of a free move. The A4 came because I had to stack a couple of 4" Chouinard bongs, several times. We would have made it, no matter what, for we were climbing beyond our limit, and doing well. Now, if I cold have only succeeded with women the same way!  I guess that remains as the ultimate of my climbing experience. Horak free climbed it later, and I cannot imagine... I guess I am getting old.   Lee Davis

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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