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Grand Teton June 20-24


Original Post
Steve Phillips · · Holden, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Looking for a reliable partner to climb with from June 20-24. Was hoping to do Owen Spaulding the first day and then do the exum Ridge the following day. I have my own rack 

Mike-Mayhem · · Bozeman. MT · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 60

Id recommend skipping the owen spaulding and doing something like Irene's Arete and then exum ridge the next day

NathanC · · Logan, UT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 10

Second the above sentiment.  Unless your strategy is to figure out route-finding to/from the upper saddle and run the OS if time/conditions warrant, which is understandable.

If not, you can cruise the upper Exum and loop the lower part of OS after rapping to the upper saddle.  It's a relatively small time commitment even if pitching out, easy to assess conditions before committing, and you still get the exciting parts.

Steve Phillips · · Holden, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I’m a relatively new leader but wouldn’t be opposed to trying the lower portion of the exum as well

Mike-Mayhem · · Bozeman. MT · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 60
Steve Phillips wrote:

I’m a relatively new leader but wouldn’t be opposed to trying the lower portion of the exum as well

For a new trad leader, the exum direct will take a long time. Usually people will pitch out the lower section and basically solo the upper section. By all means go for it, but be prepared for a long day! 

Also look into the North Ridge of the middle teton. If you were to camp at the lower saddle, both the north ridge and exum ridge are easily accessed and would make for a fun multi peak trip!

Chris Re · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 15

June might have a lot of snow on OS. This is turning out to be a massive snow year and OS can have a lot  snow on the double corners late

Teton Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1
Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

The Tetons are having a pretty good snow year compared to other parts of the western US.  You will almost certainly need Ice axe and crampons to climb the grand in June.  In addition this wil slow you down on the descent on the shady west side of the mountain.  I would skip the OS.  The climbing isn't great and it will be wetter than the Exum for sure. 

Steve Phillips · · Holden, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

You guys are awesome thanks for the information! Big help

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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