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Silence


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Nate Tastic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Amazing route, and a cool video.  I am not sure how I feel overall, though, with seeing all the behind the scenes stuff he has going on.   A physiologist, doctor, manager, people building him a climbing gym, etc etc.  It's kind of weird, I had no idea his life was so "professional".   I suppose he's important but IDK, I never thought of climbing in that light. 

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Russ Keane wrote:

Amazing route, and a cool video.  I am not sure how I feel overall, though, with seeing all the behind the scenes stuff he has going on.   A physiologist, doctor, manager, people building him a climbing gym, etc etc.  It's kind of weird, I had no idea his life was so "professional".   I suppose he's important but IDK, I never thought of climbing in that light. 

Get ready for climbing at the elite competitive levels to become like the Tour de France or the World Cup ski tour. I'm not super stoked about it being in the Olympics for exactly that reason. But I can't blame the athletes for doing everything they can to be the best.

Nate Tastic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

Russ Keane wrote:

Amazing route, and a cool video.  I am not sure how I feel overall, though, with seeing all the behind the scenes stuff he has going on.   A physiologist, doctor, manager, people building him a climbing gym, etc etc.  It's kind of weird, I had no idea his life was so "professional".   I suppose he's important but IDK, I never thought of climbing in that light. 

Listening (watching) Rich Roll podcast with Alex Honnold (The Soul of Free Solo Climbing: Alex Honnold.) In that episode, he mentions when he was training for Freerider how he cut out the cookies and got a weekly massage lol. I think if he trained like Ondra he'd be able to send up into the 15s too. He mentions something about getting old at one point in the conversation, but, talks about how he was the new generation that started out in the gym, not really into the dirtbag hippie party scene, even though he lived in his car for 10 years etc. and how the next generation will be even more skilled than him. Although he trains harder than most people, I'm sure, I don't think he trains like Adam does. Sharma doesn't train that hard either and always got by on sheer talent alone, from what I've been told, anyway.


Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

"the next generation will be even more skilled than him."

I like your perspective.  It's true, it seems that Ondra is the most "driven" in terms of using all the tools available and psych-foscusing on a project until he gets it.   Honnold seems more chill.   But I will not share his prediction about future climbers being better!   At some point we will looking at "the ultimate climber" in the face, someone who will never be eclipsed.   To me, it's Honnold.

Nate Tastic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

Russ Keane wrote:

"the next generation will be even more skilled than him."

I like your perspective.  It's true, it seems that Ondra is the most "driven" in terms of using all the tools available and psych-foscusing on a project until he gets it.   Honnold seems more chill.   But I will not share his prediction about future climbers being better!   At some point we will looking at "the ultimate climber" in the face, someone who will never be eclipsed.   To me, it's him.  I find it hard to believe anyone will be more advanced than Honnold.

And to a certain degree, I was comparing Fuji Apples to Braeburn Apples here. They (Alex/Adam) have been training for different things. I've heard Alex mention a few times he'd like to move up a grade but, he's having so much fun going on adventures. I'm sure he's pretty happy with his life without having to have 15s in it too.

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Russ Keane wrote:

"the next generation will be even more skilled than him."

I like your perspective.  It's true, it seems that Ondra is the most "driven" in terms of using all the tools available and psych-foscusing on a project until he gets it.   Honnold seems more chill.   But I will not share his prediction about future climbers being better!   At some point we will looking at "the ultimate climber" in the face, someone who will never be eclipsed.   To me, it's him.  I find it hard to believe anyone will be more advanced than Honnold.

Never underestimate the power of growing up seeing people doing things one way and just having it in your mind you want to be better than that. My daughter looks at Ondra and Ashima and Margo and all of them and sees that what I would have though is impossible is definitely possible. Which sets her expectation of the possible. So don't be surprised to see her and her peers doing what we currently think is impossible. That's just the progression of sports. 

Brian Shaffer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 40

Russ Keane wrote:

I find it hard to believe anyone will be more advanced than Honnold.

Roger Bannister died last weekend at the age of 88. He was the first man to record a mile run in less than 4 minutes, on May 6th 1954.

Back then people thought you would die if you ran a mile in less than 4 minutes, and it would never be repeated (even though it was, by Bannister, later that year). He became a physician and was an outspoken critic of PEDs in sport. 

In a sense I do agree with you though for the following reason: Once rock climbing joins the Olympics and comes under the "all seeing" eyes of WADA someone is going to make a mistake and test positive for some PED. Its not an if but a when. And it just takes one rock climber to have been proven to use PEDs to put the seed of doubt into the accomplishments of all rock climbers, especially if they are not really tested that often.

It could now be a sort of last golden age in the sport, like in the years before Lance Armstrong was caught. Has competitive cycling ever been the same?

I want to be clear I don't think Adam Ondra uses PEDs. But with rock climbing getting so big and so lucrative it is only a matter of time.

bernard wolfe · · birmingham, al · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 170

i was sure there was going to be some knee surgery resulting.....


Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Brian Shaffer wrote:

Roger Bannister died last weekend at the age of 88. He was the first man to record a mile run in less than 4 minutes, on May 6th 1954.

It could now be a sort of last golden age in the sport, like in the years before Lance Armstrong was caught. Has competitive cycling ever been the same?

I want to be clear I don't think Adam Ondra uses PEDs. But with rock climbing getting so big and so lucrative it is only a matter of time.

There's a big difference between rock climbing and Tour level competitive cycling. The elite levels of cycling were ALL doping. It wasn't just Lance. Lance just fell the farthest because he'd risen the highest. And the nature of that kind of grueling sport is that PEDs actually really work. To be able to recover quicker is a matter of enormous competitive edge.

I don't see that happening in climbing. Sure, maybe some injured climber is going to want to dabble in banned substances to recover quicker, but the nature of the sport isn't that your body is continuously breaking down. And pure, rampant muscle growth like anabolic steroids support would actually be detrimental to climbing, IMO. 

Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 8

Brian Shaffer wrote:

Roger Bannister died last weekend at the age of 88...

Back then people thought you would die if you ran a mile in less than 4 minutes

Well they weren't wrong now were they


Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 8

Giant roof problems are dumb.

Nolan Fulton · · Montgomery,AL · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 628

No matter how you look at it. I feel all can agree that it is a deep level of dedication. If there weren’t people out there pushing the “limits” at whatever means possible. Where do you think climbing would be? 

I’m excited to see where climbing goes. Even if it blows up to be a whole bunch of people indoors training. I’ll still be out in the outdoors.  

Nate Tastic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

It's possible the second coming of the Golden Age of Climbing is behind us. I mean, how good can one get while sitting on their phone all day updating one's Instagram followers every hour? 

Chatting on MP all day is total badassery, though. Finger strength matters. 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

AndrewArroz wrote:

There's a big difference between rock climbing and Tour level competitive cycling. The elite levels of cycling were ALL doping.

"were", LOL

Tomily ma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 295

I love the video; it’s some of the most creative movement I’ve ever seen a human do. I’ve been a huge fan of Ondra since he was a goofy 14 year old and screaming like a banshee. Haters gonna hate. Ondra is a boss!!!

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

"Roger Bannister died last weekend"

I hadn't heard that.   In rock climbing, though, the extent of its development is limited by the very physical realities of the rock itself.   At some point, grade increases will just simply be impossible.   I mean, wouldn't 5.17 be sheer overhanging rock with no holds?  The running fast analogy doesn't totally work because the only thing being tested there is the human body (assuming flat pavement stays the same, albeit shoes get better over time), compared to the arc of rock climbing which is not human vs. himself but human vs. rock formations.

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Long Ranger wrote:

"were", LOL

Just want to be clear I'm not saying they AREN'T currently, just that I have no proof of that. Whereas the Lance era is case closed.

Watch the movie Icarus if you want some good insight into how widespread doping is in elite sports and how it works. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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