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Are you tugging my cam?


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Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

Or just pulling my leg? That is, do you give your cams a tug? (2 min mark.)

Safe? Unsafe? YGD?


FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Yes, I sometimes give my cams a tug when I place them. Necessary or not, it gives me reassurance.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 525

I always yank on placed cams---unless the stance is too tenuous! 

According to the theory (which is only partially related to reality), a cam that withstands a tug will withstand any load that doesn't break the cam or the rock, so the tug test has at least a theoretical basis.  Moreover, somewhere there is a study (sorry, I can't locate it at the moment) that found that yanking on cams "set" them in some way and increased their holding power. (The theory does not explain this---perhaps a slight deformation of the cam surface is involved?)

Chris and Freda · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Yep, like rgold, we yank when we can.  It is an excellent educational tool also; you may be surprised, when learning how to place cams well, how many times a cam that "looks good" pops right out on a hard tug.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

If tugging on cams involves pulling on them on get up a route you’re fat to climb otherwise.. yes

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Bill Kirby wrote:

If tugging on cams involves pulling on them on get up a route you’re fat to climb otherwise.. yes

Yes, aid-tugging!

Everett · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 25

I wiggle more than I tug.

patto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 25

It seems pretty absurd not to tug test your cams by a light tug unless the situation really inhibits it.  You would normally do the same for nuts so why not cams?  Its habit for me, and on a couple of occasions even some seemingly totally bomber cams have come out on my habitual test pull.

For example what looks like solid rock might actually be a large loose flake or block.  Happened once for me in what seemed like a totally solid placement.  There was a bulge that was actually loose, but it looked totally solid and I was about to use it as a hold!

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 484

But tut said it was ridiculous to tug on cams...

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
eli poss wrote:

But tut said it was ridiculous to tug on cams...

Link? 

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 484
Nate Tastic wrote:

Link? 

Sarcasm...

And:

King Tut wrote:


Not that tugging on a cam makes the placement worse, but definitely makes it no better in sound stone and this idea that you can judge the amount of flex of a flake with a hand tug and decide how much is safe for lead pro is ridiculous. And more than one guy has had a cam pop and hit him in the face or peeled off a flake and had bad things happen. Beat on flakes with your hand. If they resonate, they are sketchy lead pro and you are rolling the dice. You tug on nuts to seat them, not cams.

from https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114112050/lets-constructively-discuss-newbie-trad-videos?page=3 and also page 4

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
eli poss wrote:

Sarcasm...

And:

from https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114112050/lets-constructively-discuss-newbie-trad-videos?page=3 and also page 4

I now remember reading that lol.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,435

+1 excellent thread naming skills Nate.

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Maybe tug if it seemed uncertain.  But bomber needs no tug

JFM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,768

If you tug it more than 3 times, you're just playing with it.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 484
JFM wrote:

If you tug it more than 3 times, you're just playing with it.

Shake it once that's fine. Shake it twice that's okay. Shake it three times... you're playing with yourself again

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

You put your 2 cam in

You take your 2 cam out

You put your 2 cam in

And you shake it all about

You do the camey wamey

And you turn your cam around

That's what it's all about

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

i tug on my nuts

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

and my tool.... ice tool that is!

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10

If you guys keep tugging so much, you might go blind. Or at the very least hit yourself in the face with your cam. So just put it in the crack already and quit playing around with it so much. And remember what Shatner of the Mount said, "love the mountain." 

https://youtu.be/HU2ftCitvyQ


Hobo Greg · · My Van · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 175

I check for walking, but how a few dozen pounds of force generated by tugging does anything to replicate the hundreds or thousands of pounds of force applied in a fall is beyond me.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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