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New to the area


Original Post
Christian Eaton · · Manchester · Joined May 2014 · Points: 80

I’m moving to Southern NH in a couple weeks and am looking for a consensus of which guidebook(s) I should get. I mostly prefer long multipitch climbing. What’s the word?

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 740

The Notches, North Conway Rock Climbs, and Adirondack Rock should do the trick.

Christian Eaton · · Manchester · Joined May 2014 · Points: 80

If I could add a second question, what’s the consensus on climbing gym I should get a membership to?

Chris W · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 168

There is also the chinos guide to southern NH which might be pretty good for you. DRussos suggestions are spot on. The new ward smith rumney book could also be good if you are a sport climber.

Kris Fiore · · Burlington, VT · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 1,846
DRusso wrote:

The Notches, North Conway Rock Climbs, and Adirondack Rock should do the trick.

Gonna suggest NH and NY guidebooks and just skip right over ol' Vermont, eh?!

....yeah that sounds about right.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 9,245
Kris Fiore wrote:

Gonna suggest NH and NY guidebooks and just skip right over ol' Vermont, eh?!

....yeah that sounds about right.

It's just choss , right? ;op

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,276
Kris Fiore wrote:

Gonna suggest NH and NY guidebooks and just skip right over ol' Vermont, eh?!

....yeah that sounds about right.

Embrace the quiet splendor. ;)

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 740
Kris Fiore wrote:

Gonna suggest NH and NY guidebooks and just skip right over ol' Vermont, eh?!

....yeah that sounds about right.

Haha. Well he did say he prefers long multi-pitch climbs. I thought Vermont only had single pitch climbing   definitely not any multi-pitch at Wheeler Mountain or Marshfield...

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Poor guy, coming from Colorado front range .......    NH is pretty cool, but "long multi pitch" in the way you are accustomed to, is very much not in play  

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

nothing to see here in VT....  keep it moveing.........

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Ya, we got yellow spurs all over the place ;).......  not...........

Christian Eaton · · Manchester · Joined May 2014 · Points: 80
Russ Keane wrote:

Poor guy, coming from Colorado front range .......    NH is pretty cool, but "long multi pitch" in the way you are accustomed to, is very much not in play  

Cannon cliff looks comparable in length to multi pitch’s on the front range. I love Colorado and the climbing speaks for itself, but I’m looking forward to climbing a different style in a new setting. 

Christian Eaton · · Manchester · Joined May 2014 · Points: 80

And don’t worry, I won’t come crowd Vermont. Isn’t that where all the hippies are anyway..... 

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

"Cannon cliff looks comparable in length to multi pitch’s on the front range"

I suppose so, in a way.  Cannon is an awesome cliff, and has classics.  You have to be prepared, though, for a step down in rock quality compared to places in Colorado.  Often at Cannon there are throw-away chossy pitches.  (Maybe not VMC Direct; I have not climbed it), but generally it's not a "clean cliff" with consistent pitches all the way to the top, like you get at Eldo and Lumpy. 

Cathedral and Whitehorse have great 2-4 pitch climbs and is super classic climbing.   You will definitely not be disappointed with the NH style.  It's a fantastic climbing state.  Sounds like you are open minded enough to make the transition work.   Make sure you boulder at Pawtuckaway; it's awesome as hell.

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I've visited Eldo. The quality of the climbing is not the problem in the Northeast in my opinion. It's the 300 days of sunshine you'll miss. 

Chris W · · Somerville, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 168
Russ Keane wrote:

"Cannon cliff looks comparable in length to multi pitch’s on the front range"

I suppose so, in a way.  Cannon is an awesome cliff, and has classics.  You have to be prepared, though, for a step down in rock quality compared to places in Colorado.  Often at Cannon there are throw-away chossy pitches.  (Maybe not VMC Direct; I have not climbed it), but generally it's not a "clean cliff" with consistent pitches all the way to the top, like you get at Eldo and Lumpy. 

Cathedral and Whitehorse have great 2-4 pitch climbs and is super classic climbing.   You will definitely not be disappointed with the NH style.  It's a fantastic climbing state.  Sounds like you are open minded enough to make the transition work.   Make sure you boulder at Pawtuckaway; it's awesome as hell.

There are also some worthwhile longer climbs in the ADKs, like on Poke-O-Moonshine, and Wallface. Nothing amazingly long; but still worthwhile endeavors. 

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75

Three guidebooks: north Conway rock climbs by jerry handren, rumney by ward smith, and pawtuckaway by Bryce dallhaus. Trad, sport, and boulder.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

cannon is a complete heap but its the biggest thing we got so we have to love it ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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