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Sport anchors


Original Post
Kevin Marsh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 20

 when using two opposing quick draws as an anchor do you prefer gates in/towards each other or gates out/away from each other

Turner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 267

Gates down and out, the idea is that the rope will get pulled toward the spine.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 15,610

If I used 2 quick draws, I would put the gates opposed, UNLESS by doing so one gate could be pressured open against the rock when the system is weighted.  Then I would use a locker for that biner. (by replacing the quick draw with an "alpine draw" that has a locker on at least one end.) 

However, I almost always use two alpine draws with two lockers to run  the rope through, maybe even locker(s) for the end of the draw at the bolts too. 

Perhaps a bit of "overkill" but "Why Not?"  

ps- What Turner states about pulling the spine towards the rock is the essential thought of "UNLESS ...could be pressured open"; but wouldn't the gate position be better if the 2 biners were gate UP and out??? 

 

grog m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

I prefer gates in. Does not matter however. 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

Had to actually think about whether or not I manage which direction the gates face when I hang the draws. 

Turns out I normally set them up for gates out, but since I had to think about it, it probably doesn't matter to me one way or another. 

rees labree · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 191

I'm a big outward and opposing guy

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

If you have a couple of dedicated anchor draws with lockers on the rope end, you don't have to worry about orientation. 

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341

If you face gates in the carabiners can become clipped to each other, probably not deadly but not ideal either. Gates out.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476
FrankPS wrote:

If you have a couple of dedicated anchor draws with lockers on the rope end, you don't have to worry about orientation. 

Yep, and all the wear gets taken by those lockers instead of being spread out among your draws, slowly wearing them down over the years to useless crap. If you have people toproping a lot on the routes you lead, consider using steel lockers that never wear out and won't make your rope black. 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Tim Stich wrote:

Yep, and all the wear gets taken by those lockers instead of being spread out among your draws, slowly wearing them down over the years to useless crap. If you have people toproping a lot on the routes you lead, consider using steel lockers that never wear out and won't make your rope black. 

Or edelrids bullet proof carabiners. Steel insert, bent gate, super light.

grog m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70
DrRockso wrote:

If you face gates in the carabiners can become clipped to each other, probably not deadly but not ideal either. Gates out.

Well as long as we are considering random circumstances facing them outwards poses the chance of one of the carbiners clipping to the other as well. 

Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 145

Gates should always be facing in. When the biners are facing one another they are in a more friendly position (as though in conversation with one another) this creates a more harmonious anchor with positive energy and encourages safety and TR sending! If you face the gates out it is a symbol of discord rather than unity and this can create dangerous cragging environments by generating animosity amongst the climbing family!!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Peter Foster wrote:

Gates should always be facing in. When the biners are facing one another they are in a more friendly position (as though in conversation with one another) this creates a more harmonious anchor with positive energy and encourages safety and TR sending! If you face the gates out it is a symbol of discord rather than unity and this can create dangerous cragging environments by generating animosity amongst the climbing family!!

That is great! We want our pieces of gear to work as a team.

I give my gear vacation time between work assignments. They are thankful and refreshed when it's time to go to work.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341
grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

Well as long as we are considering random circumstances facing them outwards poses the chance of one of the carbiners clipping to the other as well. 

No, it's not random and I've seen it happen on several occasions with inward facing carabiners, does not happen with outwardly facing ones. If it's not making sense go set it up?

Turner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 267
Peter Foster wrote:

Gates should always be facing in. When the biners are facing one another they are in a more friendly position (as though in conversation with one another) this creates a more harmonious anchor with positive energy and encourages safety and TR sending! If you face the gates out it is a symbol of discord rather than unity and this can create dangerous cragging environments by generating animosity amongst the climbing family!!

End of thread.

Hamilton Kibbe · · Boston, MA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 70

As with any gate-related question, there is only one true way:

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,832
Hamilton Kibbe wrote:

As with any gate-related question, there is only one true way:

Brilliant! Now I'm picturing Finkle's mom (portrayed by the late Alice Drummond) offering cookies, in the shape of little carabiners. "Gates out!"

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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