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Easy and moderate TR accessible without leading in the Gunks (Peterskill is Closed until April 1)


Original Post
David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124

Some friends ranging from beginner to intermediate climbing skill are coming to visit me this weekend to TR, and I wanted to take them to Peterskill, but it's closed until April 1.

I checked out L*** C*** today with my TR solo rig today and it's good for TR but the only easy-ish thing I found was a 5.9-ish crack out climber's right about a quarter mile. That's good for me and one of the visiting climbers, but it's too hard for the beginners.

My current plan is to try the stuff at the beginning of the Trapps and lead some stuff further out if the close stuff is too crowded. But I'm wondering if there's anything less crowded/easier to get to the top available. Particularly I don't know much about Bonticou--PM me if you don't want to share details publicly.

Mashanya · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Go to Powerlinz instead. It's all TR and plenty moderate routes. 

Mashanya · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Bounticou crag is not graded, I know it has moderate routes, but you will have to set them up then try to climb to see how hard they are.  

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,095

If going to Bonticou, please respect our feathered friends.  This includes trails at the base and the clifftop in the closure area:

2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE

Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect (as of February 23, 2018). Help us to protect the fledgling Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,464

David, feel free to contact me for the scoop on whats good for your group, if the Trapps wont do. (Will -starting from the top, lowering- down,  slabs do?)

RichBeBe · · New York City, NY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

This might be a good future reference, but you will not be climbing this weekend. 2-3" or rain and some if it may be snow Friday and Saturday. No way any of the cliffs will be dry by Sunday.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
RichBeBe wrote:

This might be a good future reference, but you will not be climbing this weekend. 2-3" or rain and some if it may be snow Friday and Saturday. No way any of the cliffs will be dry by Sunday.

Not to mention the hurricane force winds forecasted.

But when you guys do go. I always find easy routes to lead and TR a lap or two even on The weekends at the Trapps. Just gotta be flexible.

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,095
Michael Schneider wrote:


MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 66

Are you only looking to set TRs from above - i.e. nobody in your group belaying? And from fixed anchors? Much is accessible via scramble, but I wasn't clear on your parameters.

If you have someone to belay though you would have more options than worth listing, including setting TRs from an easy climb and TRing something harder (e.g. Bunny to setup Retribution, Nosedive and even take a crack at No Solution). Obviously be mindful of other crowds if not on a rainy/snowy day :)

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
MojoMonkey wrote:

Are you only looking to set TRs from above - i.e. nobody in your group belaying? And from fixed anchors? Much is accessible via scramble, but I wasn't clear on your parameters.

Yeah, I'm trying to avoid making people wait around while I lead a pitch. I've done the Bunny-to-set-up-a-TR-for-Nosedive-and-Retribution thing before, and it's okay, it just takes time.

Fixed anchors or not-fixed anchors I don't care about.

MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 66

Not sure your comfort level for "scramble", but some options maybe quicker than leading

  • Sudoriferous to get up the Gerdie block gives you options from TRing that, plus climbs on the front and opposite side. Not sure if there is generally any sort of anchor to get down - I remember just downclimbing Sudoriferous.
  • Using the Uberfall descent for Ken's Crack and lots right there, and most routes in the uberfall if you walk a bit and can figure out where you are from above.
  • Left of Keyhole you can head up to set up climbs in the area like The Brat. Farther climbers right you can pop through an opening for climbs by Nice Crack Climb
  • Dirty Chimney to do Laurel/Clover/Rhododendron (bolt anchors to rap off from)
  • You can TR the blocks behind Dennis/Jackie by walking up behind them (ref: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107134656/510-top-rope)
  • Similar across the carriage road from Nosedive (ref: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106410777/sonja)
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800
RichBeBe wrote:

This might be a good future reference, but you will not be climbing this weekend. 2-3" or rain and some if it may be snow Friday and Saturday. No way any of the cliffs will be dry by Sunday.

I have no eye witness confirmation, but I'm hearing that that part of Ulster County got virtually no snow. The wind we have today has got to help dry the rock out too. So it JUST MIGHT be worth a visit Sunday.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124

I live about 5 miles from the cliff, but the snow stopped last night for us and it's been sunny all morning. The Trapps cliff gets more sun/wind than my lawn and my lawn is only a little bit muddy.

In this situation, the road from the parking lot to the welcome boulders might be icy and Ken's Crack is likely a waterfall, but besides that I think the start of the Trapps will be good by tomorrow.

But, like Gunkiemike, I don't have any eyewitness confirmation.

RichBeBe · · New York City, NY · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

I was going to post as well. I think my prediction was wrong. I have a house about 10 minutes from the cliff and though I am not there my webcam shows barespots on my lawn. It might just dry out for tomorrow.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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