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Devils Lakes first time


Original Post
Peter Stangl · · Minnesota · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 350

Hey y'all! 

I'm heading to devils lake for the first time in a few weeks, not to sure what to jump on or what's big for gear need there. Any suggestions about great routes, gear needs, ect.? 

P.S. I'm not a 5.13 climber haha (it's lower) 

Thanks everyone!

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,455

In a few weeks? You will need a down parka, cigarettes, a bottle of Wild Turkey 101 (not 80 you chuffer) and a blowtorch. Enjoy

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

A grade range would be helpful, as there are classics from 5.3-13.  If you’re human, I would hit the East Bluff and get on some of the classic 5.6-5.9s like Brinton’s Crack, Peter’s Project, Upper Diagonal, etc.  In general, the grades might feel stiff, so I would be conservative and start well within your normal ability.

There are no bolts in the park (except for towers like Cleo’s) so you’ll need at a minimum gear for anchors.  Almost all climbs can be approached from above, so you can set topropes if you’re not looking to lead.  For that, long webbing and/or static line is helpful.  A standard rack will get you up most climbs, emphasizing smaller gear (TCUs/Aliens are good to have even on  moderates).

CCas · · Chicago, IL · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120
Ted Pinson wrote:

A grade range would be helpful, as there are classics from 5.3-13.  If you’re human, I would hit the East Bluff and get on some of the classic 5.6-5.9s like Brinton’s Crack, Peter’s Project, Upper Diagonal, etc.  In general, the grades might feel stiff, so I would be conservative and start well within your normal ability.

There are no bolts in the park (except for towers like Cleo’s) so you’ll need at a minimum gear for anchors.  Almost all climbs can be approached from above, so you can set topropes if you’re not looking to lead.  For that, long webbing and/or static line is helpful.  A standard rack will get you up most climbs, emphasizing smaller gear (TCUs/Aliens are good to have even on  moderates).

Agree with Ted... Use the fliter function on MP and hit anything with 3+ stars on the East Bluff and u will be golden first time out. Will be chilly so pack accordingly. Some of the classics are... Brintons, False Alarm Jam, Peters Proj, Orgasm, Upper D, Stretcher, Congratulations, Sometimes, Cheetah, Thoroughfare.... lots of options and southern exposure. Have fun!

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,248

Peters is NOT three stars.  (Popcorn started) 

CCas · · Chicago, IL · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120
jon jugenheimer wrote:

Peters is NOT three stars.  (Popcorn started) 

HAHA, u are obv a local since u know what buttons to push. That climbs classic’ness is def a hot button topic!! Lol

Peter Stangl · · Minnesota · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 350

Hey everyone thanks for the help! Really looking forward to heading out there. I'll be sure to focus on the East Bluff while there. Grade range would be capped off at 12 for myself, but cold weather might knock a few off that number. Either way I'm looking forward to it! Tradiban I'll be sure to bring that out and maybe some Jack D. :D

Everett · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 25
Peter Stangl wrote:

Hey everyone thanks for the help! Really looking forward to heading out there. I'll be sure to focus on the East Bluff while there. Grade range would be capped off at 12 for myself, but cold weather might knock a few off that number. Either way I'm looking forward to it! Tradiban I'll be sure to bring that out and maybe some Jack D. :D

If it's cold but sunny, The Bedroom is a really nice area with limited shade.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195
jon jugenheimer wrote:

Peters is NOT three stars.  (Popcorn started) 

Slick as ice from being constantly TR-banged, Crux start with loose rock before you get your first piece in...What’s not to love?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,455
Peter Stangl wrote:

Hey everyone thanks for the help! Really looking forward to heading out there. I'll be sure to focus on the East Bluff while there. Grade range would be capped off at 12 for myself, but cold weather might knock a few off that number. Either way I'm looking forward to it! Tradiban I'll be sure to bring that out and maybe some Jack D. :D

Jack is for FIBS.

Peter Stangl · · Minnesota · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 350

Jack was my go to in the army, bottles always stacked nice in bins and ammo containers haha, easy to conceal. But I'll bring some wild turkey out this time how about that? :D 

Peter Stangl · · Minnesota · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 350

And thanks Everett! That's good to know if I get lucky and it shines a bit 

Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 346

I'll be out there this weekend. 45-50 and sunny. Looking to cruise or flail on some cracks. Hope to see you all out there!

Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 346

Lol Peter I responded to this thread before I knew it was you. Just go out with me and everything will be fine, we'll crush. No beta needed.Just pull harder.

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,108
jon jugenheimer wrote:

Peters is NOT three stars.  (Popcorn started) 

You're right, it's five-stars!

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,108

And to the original query:

Peter Stangl wrote:

Hey y'all! 

I'm heading to devils lake for the first time in a few weeks, not to sure what to jump on or what's big for gear need there. Any suggestions about great routes, gear needs, ect.? 

P.S. I'm not a 5.13 climber haha (it's lower) 

Thanks everyone!

There is a ton of good information here on MP. I'll affirm the thoughts of others and tell you to stick to the East Rampart - at least for your first few forays into the park. There are many classics all along the bluff there. It's sort of de rigueur to park at the CCC lot, walk up the CCC trail, and walk along the rampart (top or bottom depending on your intentions) to find your desired route(s). Often you'll find that someone has gotten to that mega-classic route before you. Use your judgement, but most folks are cool, and don't mind sharing top ropes (though you should always inspect others' anchors) and/or letting leaders lead through.

Jay Knower's new guidebook "Devil's Lake: A Climbing Guide" is the handiest tool for locating the best routes throughout the park (and it's the most aesthetic - but I'm undoubtedly partial). The venerable "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" (now in its third edition with the 40th anniversary of the original printing coming in 2019) will lead you to the most obscure parts of the park - though it's often lamented about for being too dense and hard to navigate. Some other guidebooks exist, but I'd stick with these two choices - at least for roped-climbing.

Send me a PM when you're headed this way, I'd be happy answer any specific questions you have about routes and areas within the park.

Jay Morse · · Hooksett, New Hampshire · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 30

Just FYI if you didn't already know - Devil's Lake is one of the most sandbagged places I've ever been.  It is also quite a unique style of rock that can be quite slippery.  Start small with the grades - depending on where you're coming from you might have to bring your grade way down when you climb here.

It's great quality, have fun!

Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
James Schroeder wrote:

...It's sort of de rigueur to park at the CCC lot, walk up the CCC trail, and walk along the rampart (top or bottom depending on your intentions) to find your desired route(s)...

Also, if you follow the CCC trail up, as you are going up and you can see the rampart - it just sort of hits you like "oh, this is going to be super easy to navigate." I've only ever been to one or two other places where finding routes and setting up was easier than at DL. All of the features to get your bearings by are very unique and prominent and classic routes like Brinton's, Birch Tree, Upper D, etc. are incredibly obvious and stand out. All of the different sections of the East Rampart are way closer together and easier to access than you might think based on the sheer number of routes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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