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Ice climbing conditions for the Adirondacks


Original Post
Random Climber · · Burke, VA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

As even the Post Master General says that global warming is a myth, how's the ice? It seems the season has ended early for NY and one would have to go farther north. Seeking info about the Lake Placid area specifically.

Thanks!

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 14,962
ChrisMurphy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Upstate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 414
Robert Hall wrote:

From my experience in both NH and Adks I'd say you'd find the same thing there...i.e. maybe stuff in Chapel Pd Canyon and, like Chouinards, would still be OK but anything that gets sun...watch out. 


Chouinard's was not in Saturday evening, or at least the start wasn't, even with some trickery to try and get around it. Like the report says though, several canyon climbs still survive and are good to go

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

dismal indeed when chiounards can not be done. that thing never sees any sun......



jackkelly00 · · new hampshire · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

Chiounards is not in. I was there today. Went to do multiplication gully as well and had to bail (first pitch no pro).

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 14,962

Looks bad.  Currently (9:20am, 2/28/18) as I look out my window in No. Conway NH it's 50F in the shade and sunny. At 6:30am the summit of Breton Woods (about 3500 ft) reported 44F. 

 

YDrx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Hi . Was planning to make a last attempt to grasp ice this coming WE … is the Black Dike totally out ? 

Any North face routes available or anything in Smugglers Notch ?  … Yves

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I was in Smuggs this weekend. There was some ice left. Blue room was surprisingly still standing, but thin (I didn't climb it). Dave's and Doug's were in bad shape. There were some gullies on the West side near the top of the Notch that people were climbing - sorry don't know names.

I'm curious about the Dike too. 

Huntington looks like it still has some ice.

YDrx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
jdejace wrote:

I was in Smuggs this weekend. There was some ice left. Blue room was surprisingly still standing, but thin (I didn't climb it). Dave's and Doug's were in bad shape. There were some gullies on the West side near the top of the Notch that people were climbing - sorry don't know names.

I'm curious about the Dike too. 

Huntington looks like it still has some ice.

Tks. Great photo. Blue room looks certainly thin !! Unfortunately, I am a little far from Smugs to go this WE … Will post more if I go Sunday ...

Brandonian · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35

adk_traplordz on Instagram for conditions pics!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

blue room not you best choice. It gets hammered by the sun.  nothing on the south wall likely to be safe. BIB, Blind fate Elliphant head gully, watership down work out wall, jeffs, etc may still be in...

YDrx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Tks. That is also what I thought even maybe the Grand Confusion/illusion side but being in Boston makes for a long drive for one day ...

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

certainly grand confusion

Jamie Severini · · Jersey · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Any first hand beta around here on Avalanche Mountain Gully or Adirondike? Hoping to get on it this weekend.  Saw the rock and river report , but I'd love to hear from anyone straight up. 

James Gurian · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I did the Trap Dike over the weekend. I don't know what normal is for that route, but we found lots of unconsolidated snow and the ice seemed a bit thin and very slushy in places. I glanced at Adirondike and it looked like it might be in better shape, but no promises. Avalanche Lake was still frozen solid all over. 

Mike V. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 5

Drove through KV on Sunday 3/4; roaring brook falls was wide open and flowing. 

Jamie Severini · · Jersey · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks Mike. .better bring my floaties

Mike V. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 5

Some more points of detail worth noting (now that I think about it more) - While driving on 73  the quarry looked in, and I _think_ Nicole said that the cascade was in (both are hard to see while driving by at 50 MPH, so take that for what its worth). We also saw a party crossing chapel pond with gear (not sure what climb they were going to get on). 

Random Climber · · Burke, VA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone!

I appreciate the updates and the Instagram link. I’ll try this weekend and update on the conditions.

Also, other updates as well would be appreciated!

Thanks



Jamie Severini · · Jersey · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Saw a party on Chouinards around 2 o'clock today looking pretty good from across the pond. Peeped trap dike, adirondike, and avalanche mountain gully. Ice was fat but loaded with unconsolidated snow on all accounts. Adirondike might have been thin near the top, but I don't know it's typical condition. 

I forgot to nab a copy of blue lines , does anyone know off hand what I climbed? Heading into avalanche lake from the loj it's the last protruding flow on the right before the lake begins. 50 yard bushwack up to a nice single pitch flow . Top was fat, bottom was thin and fairly rotted but a hoot nonetheless.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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