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TR solo belay system, what system do you use?


Original Post
Benjamin Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Looking for the best TR soloing system, safe and cheap. Let me know what you use or would recommend. 

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 870

Top device

microtraxion, DMM Phantom locker, bungee with one biner and a loop on the other side, goes round my neck to keep it upright. Don't really need any more protection for cross loading outside of the bungee

Bottom device

Minitraxion, DMM Belay Master, I make sure the plastic clip that safeguards the the screwgate opens downwards, otherwise it can be hard to unclip 


on Harness

Metolius Full Strength Daisy Chain with a big DMM Locker

DMM pivot & Sentinel

Grigri & Phantom, probably only need one belay device but it's comforting to have 2, you're on your own up there. 

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

https://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/General-principles-for-solo-climbing-with-a-fixed-belay-rope

And weight the line(s) to ensure smooth feeding. I usually clip my approach shoes to a biner and then clove to the biner.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800

And there's lots more.

Z Winters · · Mazama, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 220

Keep it simple. Pick whatever 2 progress capture devices you want based on what you already, might have other uses for, price, preferences, etc.

Attach to a thick enough (your choice) single rope (static or dynamic, your choice), then to your belay loop with 2 lockers (whatever is recommended for chosen devices)

In a way that won't interfere with the device, create a stretchy attachment from the top device to your neck or a chest harness to keep it upright (elastic cord, headlamp strap, etc.)

Make sure that a) your rope is protected from sharp edges, b) your 2 devices won't interfere with each other, c) you know how to escape the system d) you actually go use it rather than spend hours reading hundreds of MP posts debating minutiae.

Popular devices to choose from include, and pros/cons can obviously be debated ad nauseam:

Petzl Micro Traxion, Mini Traxion, Microcender, Ascension, Basic, CAMP Lift, Climbing Technologies Roll'n'Lock, Wild Country Ropeman (1&2 have different applications). There are many more, but these are popular and feed better than GriGri/Cinch type options.


Slartibartfast · · Magrathea · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote:

Gear changes.

OP: I use two Petzl Basics. They work well enough for me and were less than half the price of a microtraxion.

Wes C · · Cleveland, oh · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 136

I use a camp lift with Kong duck as backup.  Have also used a cinch with the Kong.  

Dave Dillon · · Tewksbury · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 180

I use a Camp Soloist ascender slung over my chest by a double length sling and also clipped into my belay loop. I tie a fig 8 for the top anchor and use the "spare" end of the rope for butterfly knots that I can clip into as I progress. The ascender strand of rope I weight so my ascender can glide up without snagging.  I mainly use this on ice, so I'm not expecting to take a huge whipper on it. Probably not the most redundant but it does the job for me and it was cheap.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800
Slartibartfast wrote:

Gear changes.

OP: I use two Petzl Basics. They work well enough for me and were less than half the price of a microtraxion.

Oh the ironing... the Basic was introduced 20+ years ago.

Derek Rheingans · · Malibu Ca · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 111

I’ve been meaning to pick up a a hauling device for that. The petzl croll... tie of up top and on bottom and you should be golden.. should be . Feedback?

Racechinees . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Homemade cookies; to bribe somebody to belay me. 

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Camp lift on top on steel oval so there is no chance of cross loading failure, held up by short piece of paracord looped around a chest harness made from slings.

Microtraxion backup.

Tie loop in non climbing strand of rope at the top, so i have something to stand in to unweight rope and setup grigri rappel. More than one way to skin a cat.  yer gonna die.

BrokenChairs ~ · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 235


Mini and Micro trax with Gridlock carabiners to prevent cross loading.  There's many ways to do it as has been discussed. By using a sling to keep the main device at my chest I never take falls and so I've never had any sheath/teeth issues.  

This guy has a pretty good blog on TR soloing: https://camp4.wordpress.com/2013/03/20/going-solo-a-solo-toprope-setup/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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