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Lets constructively discuss Newbie Trad videos.


Original Post
King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Occasionally get bored and go to youtube looking for some entertainment....

And am struck by time after time seeing Go-Pro vids of beginners making fundamental mistakes that could lead to accidents.

The idea is to create a thread where the issues are constructively discussed, not a public shaming a la "hahah noobs yer gonna die!" but a constructive one where the mistakes are identified and discussed.

And not rife with Dogma (ikr) but discussing clearly identifiable errors that there is large consensus are far less than ideal and not a hair splitting based on individual style.

Maybe it would belong in the Beginner Forum.

ur thoughts?

YGD™, Harumpf™ in advance.

For example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gMQ1q6M0Xo

Fundamental mistakes in the anchor rigging in this vid. See if you can identify the mistake (s)?

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Constructive public shaming? HAHA can’t wait!

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Mark r wrote:

This thread already exists

Orly? Can you help a brother out and point me in the right direction?

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 865
Deirdre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

I think that the other thread is mostly ha-ha look at those idiots and this is intended to critique unsafe practices. Maybe the title should be changed. I tried to deconstruct the anchor - it is a bit of a mess. It looks like 2 draws and the rope is tied to it as well. (I'm looking at 1:16. It seems to me (please correct me if I'm wrong.) that this would be a good place for the clove hitch anchor in this thread https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112835265/clove-hitch-climbing-anchor

Digression - I do not understand the desire to document climbs. Watching most people climb is like watching paint dry Usually, my leads are long periods of me thinking about the move, running away and then crying while pulling the move. Not exactly the stuff of good film.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Deirdre wrote:

I think that the other thread is mostly ha-ha look at those idiots and this is intended to critique unsafe practices. Maybe the title should be changed. I tried to deconstruct the anchor - it is a bit of a mess. It looks like 2 draws and the rope is tied to it as well. (I'm looking at 1:16. It seems to me (please correct me if I'm wrong.) that this would be a good place for the clove hitch anchor in this thread https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112835265/clove-hitch-climbing-anchor

Digression - I do not understand the desire to document climbs. Watching most people climb is like watching paint dry Usually, my leads are long periods of me thinking about the move, running away and then crying while pulling the move. Not exactly the stuff of good film.


Only one of the Bolts is tied into with significant extension in its connection to the other biner/bolt if the one tied into would fail (a sling seems to be into that biner he's clipped into. This is mostly a quibble as the bolts are new and should be sound.

However, the other bolt has a sling on it as a "jesus piece/redirect" on the wrong side so the leader would fall across the belayer knocking him off his stance and maybe burning him with the rope....This needs to be anticipated before the leader leaves the belay (ideally the person building the anchor has this already thought out). The belayer should (ideally) be hanging out to the right with the jesus piece/redirect going off the left bolt so the belayer is free from the lead line when it comes down to the anchor in a fall.

Took a look at the other thread (https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113931865/post-other-not-awesome-trad-videos-here) and it is definitely a shaming thread by the "cool kids"....harmless mostly of course.

Definitely thinking of a more constructive thread that would identify and discuss errors in the hope of helping newbies.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

Yeah, that anchor is whack.  More importantly, though: why the hell is the leader wearing a pack?!  Oh.  That rhymed.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Ted Pinson wrote:

More importantly, though: why the hell is the leader wearing a pack?!  Oh.  That rhymed.

The approach and the walk off?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195
Bill Kirby wrote:

The approach and the walk off?

Obviously, but at the least he should have left it with the second.  With proper planning they should have been able to break it down to one bag, which stays with the follower.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Ted Pinson wrote:

Obviously, but at the least he should have left it with the second.  With proper planning they should have been able to break it down to one bag, which stays with the follower.

 Obviously, Haha.. I remember when you first started climbing. Now you’re schooling me? I love it! :) Obviously you can also carry two packs too.. especially if the 5.6 climbing is moderate enough to the leader. I carry a pack while leading on long routes. Am I doing wrong?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195
Bill Kirby wrote:

 Obviously, Haha.. I remember when you first started climbing. Now you’re schooling me? I love it! :) Obviously you can also carry two packs too.. especially if the 5.6 climbing is moderate enough to the leader. I carry a pack while leading on long routes. Am I doing wrong?

Hey old man, if you want to haul up extra crap then by all means do it, but I reserve the right to give you crap about it. ;)

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 6
Ted Pinson wrote:

Obviously, but at the least he should have left it with the second.  With proper planning they should have been able to break it down to one bag, which stays with the follower.

They did properly plan.  Have you done this climb before?

Good idea for a thread Tut.  But you really should change the title to reflect the intent.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
splitclimber wrote:

They did properly plan.  Have you done this climb before?

Good idea for a thread Tut.  But you really should change the title to reflect the intent.

Done. I wanted to kinda poll people first, we'll see how it goes.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
King Tut wrote:

Occasionally get bored and go to youtube looking for some entertainment....

And am struck by time after time seeing Go-Pro vids of beginners making fundamental mistakes that could lead to accidents.

You know there is porn on the internet to watch if you´re bored?

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 334
Jim Titt wrote:

You know there is porn on the internet to watch if you´re bored?

Quite a lot of it, actually...

SeƱor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
King Tut wrote:

Only one of the Bolts is tied into. The other only has a sling on it as a "jesus piece/redirect" (on the wrong side so the leader would fall across the belayer knocking him off his stance and maybe burning him with the rope...) with significant extension in its connection to the other biner/bolt if the one tied into would fail.

Yes on 1 (very bomber) bolt tied in, as for the wrong side, probably b/c the leader though the route went up the right ridge initially. 

Ted Pinson wrote:

Hey old man, if you want to haul up extra crap then by all means do it, but I reserve the right to give you crap about it. ;)

This is a one day hike up the Half Dome (as easy as the climbing may be), not a 40 ft TR by the lake, not that I'd carry that much stuff. There comes a point where having the 2nd carry everything makes free climbing a chore rather than an enjoyment.

bkozak · · Sterling, VA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 70

This anchor is way better.

//youtu.be/wnY_ESTjwv4

Todd F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Deirdre wrote:

Usually, my leads are long periods of me thinking about the move, running away and then crying while pulling the move. Not exactly the stuff of good film.

Stop stealing my beta

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

IMHO, unless the user posts it on MP themselves, posting someone else's video on this site just to bash it seems cruel at best.

It's one thing for someone who is actively on this site to post up knowing they might be in for it. It's another for someone who posted that video on youtube for their own reasons to stumble across it on MP and just see a slew of cruel and nasty comments about it. IMHO, post your own videos, not someone elses.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
John Wilder wrote:

IMHO, unless the user posts it on MP themselves, posting someone else's video on this site just to bash it seems cruel at best.

It's one thing for someone who is actively on this site to post up knowing they might be in for it. It's another for someone who posted that video on youtube for their own reasons to stumble across it on MP and just see a slew of cruel and nasty comments about it. IMHO, post your own videos, not someone elses.

The idea is to see (if) we can use some self restraint and keep it constructive.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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