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Training routine..in my shed


Original Post
Dave McMahon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Have a look, let me know what you guys think, this is like phase 1. I'm working lots of roof and sport training as well as some bouldering.

Thanks

Dave

 https://youtu.be/JU8Fhai34I8

Dean O! · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

David, I am worried for you as this very much looks like a fire hazard. Neat design but I would be uncomfortable without a fire extinguisher.

Hamish Malin · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15

Cause he’s on fire or what?  My shed doesn’t have a fire extinguisher, lemme go check and see if it’s still there...

Dean O! · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

If he is running a space heater or propane lantern it is a fire risk. Plain and simple. Don't be combative. 

Hamish Malin · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15

Was there some kind of heater in video?  Ok, must have missed that...

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294

Oh come on... you guys are missing the forest for the tree here. What about the ETHICS of training in a shed?! Most climbers doing FAs in the 70s and 80s lived in the dirt, they didn't even own a shed!

Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 37

Sweet. But you should get yourself a TredShed. 

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 579

Couple of thoughts-

first, nice use of a small number of holds in a small space.

I see you have at least one pad. The more the better I would say.

Obviously putting up t-nutted plywood between the joists would open up a lot more possibilities.

As you improve, consider switching out the feet to smaller and worse footholds. Will increase the intensity of the moves and improve tension and footwork.

I suspect you will get the clipping part perfected fairly quickly and won't want/need to practice that. Wouldn't put a lot of effort into expanding that aspect.

It can be really boring, but you could work out good long circuits and do metabolic training. 

Even incorporate a rest stance between circuits, then gradually make the rest hold worse as you improve.

I'm assuming you can't just go to the crag?

Dave McMahon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

dont worry there's plenty of ventilation, there are doors, that's how i get in and out

as far as ethics are concerned i hear you, but i also live in delaware so getting a good pump is a bit more of a challenge, there are 2 rock gyms in the state, 1 'crag' but its ours, and some other random things, but i'm with you, i read the tower ;)

a lot of the training is really just to simulate stresses of sustained hanging without being boring or less dynamic, its also paid off largely for the local rock gym bouldering cave. 

i actually lucked into this project as our old shed was dying a slow death, we got a new shed and a lot of snow, so over christmas i froze my ass off with a little space heater on a crash pad setting routes and beefing up the framing. 

it was tough finding examples of workout spaces constructed in such tight places, so i'm feeling this out, phase 2 will be plyboard and t-nuts, feeling out setting routes with screw on holds has been easy-ish.

thanks for the input and interest, i'll be updating my youtube with things that come along, train hard, have fun and stay safe guys.

Dave McMahon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Bump for a new video. Hope it's inspirational for your training and small spaces.

https://youtu.be/quCToTbNlzg

Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 37

Hey Dave, I thought you might be interested in this.


Dave McMahon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

back in the shed, making more videos, finally figured out how to use my action camera and found some great open software called shotcut, getting ready for some trad fun

comments welcome

https://youtu.be/JrreLL2Bae8

simplyput . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

The Fat 12”. Good choice.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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