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Original Post
Chris Hatzai · · Bend, Oregon · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 421

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GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

Go fund me for new routes? Not replacing anchors?


Weird... isn't that like a hobby? 

Sam Miller · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

Any specific lines you're eyeing right now?

Sam Miller · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30
Chris Hatzai wrote:

Yep! Got a bunch of lines scouted out. We just need to go bolt them!

I mean where

GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10
Lurker wrote:

Don't see anything wrong with this.  He puts up new routes, new bolted routes cost money. I would be more than happy to accept donations to offset those costs.  

Me too, I would like someone to pay for gas and my burrito as well. I would not say no to any payments for my outdoor activities.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
GDavis wrote:

Me too, I would like someone to pay for gas and my burrito as well. I would not say no to any payments for my outdoor activities.

Sure, I'll chip in, if your use of gas and burrito contributes to the climbing community. Full disclosure - each year I donate/give/contribute a few hundreds of dollars for hardware maintenance in local areas - New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, Mad River Gorge.


beensandbagged · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10

 From the go fund me page "new school philosophy to our bolt spacing"  As a matter of interest can this be explained?

dsauerbrun · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 55

I feel like you should concentrate on buying a new harness before buying some bolts... I'm guessing by now that thing is 100% backup slings haha

beensandbagged · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10
Chris Hatzai wrote:

Yeah normal Smith Rock bolting style can seem pretty spaced compared to other areas in the country. This is because the majority of those classic routes are on dead vert to slightly slabby walls with seemingly featureless walls. This allows for huge run outs with big exciting, but not dangerous falls. The walls were starting to develop seem to be more featured with more blockier shapes and some of the lines we’ve developed this past year seem to meander from side to side a bit. This is because the rock were developing is what was past over from prior route developers. Were picking through the scraps and sometimes the line needs to navigate around or sometimes through bad rock. Both of these instances, we are now deeming needing more bolts. We would rather put a bolt every 5’ through a questionable section, as opposed to the “old school” way of thinking of, if there’s big hold or it’s an easy section, run it out no matter what. Considering though how frail freshly cleaned holds can be, id rather slam in another bolt rather than risking a climber’s safety. That’s what we meant by new school bolting. If we can run it out and keep it exciting by Smith Rock standards (CLEAN FALLS) im all about it, but if it isnt safe, no matter if it’s 5.9 section on a 5.12 route, it’s getting a bolt added. 

Thank You.

GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

I don't mind that he does it, he can bolt whatever he wants and if the community wants to pay for it, sweet. I just don't see putting up first ascents and developing as something you do for anybody but yourself, so it's weird to me to crowdsource it. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

^^^^

There's a bolt fairy? So if I leave a bolt under my pillow, in the morning it will be gone and there will be a quarter or dollar in its place? That is so cool.

GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

I support the ACSD and the access fund and other organizations and participate in local bolt replacements and have established routes myself.

" I would argue that he is doing a service to the greater climbing community"


" That development would not have happened that fast had it not been for the support of the community and the money raised from last years bolt fund. "

Who are you asking, exactly? Is this consensus? This is a gym mentality and mind set, maybe that's what you need at Smith, I've never been, but Joshua Tree has 8,000 routes and is the busiest place to climb in winter and people have no trouble with finding routes to climb, they just climb the same classics. I'm sure he's doing good routes, at no time have I made any assumptions on things like that. Just not what I view as how climbing usually goes, well things must be different in smith...


GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

Chris Hatzai wrote:

A gym metality and mind set? What are you talking about? 

Putting up well protected safe routes specifically for the masses - you're even getting paid to do it like a setter ;)

Hamish Malin · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15
FrankPS wrote:

^^^^

There's a bolt fairy? So if I leave a bolt under my pillow, in the morning it will be gone and there will be a quarter or dollar in its place? That is so cool.

In that case, time to get choppin’

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

You can send cash to me via paypal at yosemiteerik@gmail.com

 Give Generously - We Love You!

 Woot Woot!
 Erik
 Yosemitebigwall.com

Obligatory reference.

GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10
jg fox wrote:

Obligatory reference.

He's just helping the community bro don't be a h8ter

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Chris Hatzai wrote:


What you dont need to do is talk a bunch of crap when im trying to fund raise to put up more routes. Hopefully the opposed can see the benefit of having more routes to climb at a park starting to exceed it’s capacity on a regular basis (weekends here at the main wall feel more congested than ever). 

And to Gdavis, i wrote you an email trying to reason with you but i guess that didnt get through to you so i guess i reiterate what i wrote to you in email on here, after paging through the 800+ routes of 5.10 or EASIER you have ticked on your account, i suggested your time being better well spent trying to get stronger rather than talking a bunch of shit on the internet. I suggested he try a hang board and not the key board to work out those scrawny little fingers of his.. 

I am not sure how old you are, but this behavior of attacking someone back just because they attacked you is childish.
You don't like someone's opinion - critique it without resorting to personal attacks or playground language.


Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,576

WTF.  Jesus Christ.  The guy used "crowd sourced" money to put up routes in the past.  Apparently they're decent routes and a good addition to the area.  He is trying to do it again.  Either contribute or don't.  It's pretty simple.  If you've established routes, you know that it is hard work.  He's asking for help with the hardware.  If his routes are good, thoughtful, good clipping stances, quality line, good movement, etc., I think people will pay for that.  History shows that they have, and are apparently content with it.  So, GDavis, what exactly, in no uncertain terms (please be as detailed as possible) is your problem with what he's doing?   You do realize that Smith is primarily a sport climbing area, and that the vast majority of routes are bolted, right?  Are you arguing that he should use his own money as a developer, and because he's not, it's not legit?  I mean, I guess I just don't see what your beef is.  It may have some foundation, I just don't know what it is.  Enlighten me.

Chris, I agree with amarius.  You could have taken the high ground.  Ticks aren't always indicative of what someone's done (I know mine aren't) and even if it was, it makes you look like an elitist douche, which ultimately will detract from your goal and almost certainly garner you less contributions.  I like what you're doing personally, and if Smith was near me, I'd definitely chip in.  Developing is hard work and if you're putting up quality stuff for generations to enjoy after you with good hardware, then yeah, the community should throw in.   



T Roper · · Chosstown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865

get a job hippy! do you want us to buy you your next drill too?

Austin Goff · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 80

Is it really that clownish to want to treat the rock as a non-renewable resource (which it is) that doesn't need to be grid bolted? I get it, if people wanted to pay for my hardware to put up new routes i would probably take it. However, calling people's view clownish and bashing on someone that gave a fairly level headed response seems counter productive. There will always be differing viewpoints and you've just proven once again why dialogue is dead.

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,045

I would donate but.....

  1. I'm not a local
  2. I think some of the bolt money may go to the purple sticky.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114002745/do-you-get-intoxicated-before-climbing

Just sayin'..... ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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