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Red river best trad areas

Original Post
Joe Ray · · Harmony · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Where are the best trad areas with a mix of routes.  5.4 to 5.10?   

Cole T · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 386
pat a · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

This is like asking what the best flavor of ice cream is.  

Bookmark this link to all 3 to 5 star trad routes under 5.11 and sort by wall name.

Fortress has a huge range of grades with several great <5.7 climbs, but also check out Lower Small Wall, Tower, Pebble Beach, Global Village, etc.  Diamond in the Crack is worth the hike to Jewel Pinnacle (especially now when there's less undergrowth).   

Joe Ray · · Harmony · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks guys!  

Parker H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

If you have not climbed in the red.

Focusing on 5.8 and below


Wall of Denial/ Foxfire

Global Village / Whiteout


Dip Wall

More 5.9 and up 

Funk Rock

Eastern Skybridge

Long Wall

Pebble Beach

If you are short on time many of the obscure places in the gorge have long/goofy approaches, and the ‘walls’ are spread out.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 356

As mentioned by Parker Foxfire is a lot of fun at Eagles Point Buttress, if that's too easy hop on Day Trippin' (or just the first pitch Day Dreaming) for some much higher quality climbing.

Tower Rock is a fun day, hop on Caver's Route, Arachnid, Africa, Dog Days.

For a mix of sport and trad try, Chica Bonita which has the super classic Cheaper Than A Movie

Purple Valley if you want to get away from the crowds, a bit of an approach now after the stream restoration project, but awesome climbs like Into the Purple Valley, Grunt, Etc.

If you're going to head to Lady Slipper Emerald City to do Whiteout you might as well follow it up with a hike over to Global Village for Father and Son, Casual Viewing, and Jake Flake. 

Already mentioned, Fortress is the "motherlode" of easier trad climbs, expect the pull offs to get full early on busy weekends, it can get crowded but the amount of parking and vast number of climbs means you'll likely only wait in line for Bedtime for Bonzo, American Crack, and the Calypsos. 

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 478

Rock Wars at Long Wall is one of the best trad pitches around. It looks and feels exactly like climbing at Indian Creek, UT. There are many other routes around it that are excellent.

FWIW, Indian Creek at RRG wasn't worth the overgrown hike in my opinion. My experience was that it requires significant dry weather to be anything but manky spider web thrashing

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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