Anyone have any info on climbing alpine ice/mixed lines in New Zealand in their winter/U.S. summer? I canceled on a trip to Alaska this spring due to work but am looking for options to do a similar trip in July or August so New Zealand came to mind. Any other ideas for locations? I'm tired of going rock climbing.
Tiny bit of stuff on the North Island on Mt Ruapehu, but you want the South Island. Queenstown/wanaka is the center of alpine climbing and lots of climbers from Christchurch as well that get after it in the southern alps.
Check out the NZ alpine club website as they have some online guides and also publish some excellent print guide books. Thecrag.com also has some.
The Remarkables are just outside queenstown and offer some nearly roadside alpine cragging. Tons of dif bigger routes in Mt Aspiring National Park outside of Wanaka. Overall lots lots of potential and alpine climbing but in general not as much high quality ice as in N America. Actually water ice is a novelty here.
I've just moved back to north america after 12 years in NZ. In short, if you want ice and mixed, don't go. The weather is very fickle, rock not great and conditions usually poor, The best mixed easy access mixed is in the remarkables - best route there in my opinion is the first pitch of Fastest Indian. Stuff in the darrans may or may not be in that time of year, closest reliable ice is Wye Creek - about an hour and a half ski from the top of the remarkables ski field. NZ has a lot going for it. Reliable conditions is not one of those things.
Well, like the ice and mixed, conditions in the mountains can be very fickle. I've had some great days skiing down there, but don't go expecting to ski every day. Like I said above, NZ has a lot going for it, but reliable conditions is not it.
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