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A different type of wrist pain. Is there a name to this condition?


Original Post
Mei · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 50

I have a kind of wrist pain that I cannot find any discussion about. Wonder if anyone at least know the name of the condition so I can look it up. 

I admit that my wrists are small. I can wrap my index finger and thumb around it fully closed. I have heard the notion that people with small bones have a higher tendency of getting tendon injury.

I don't remember if this is completely new, but I only recently started noticing it as it became frequent. When I pull on a hold (usu. palm facing the wall) and then lift it up for the next move, there is a brief moment of pain in the wrist. I usually have to wait a little (and shake it) for it to subside before I move on to the next move. How should I describe it? Imagine if someone is holding your hand and pulling your arm full force to the side and holding it still for some time maintaining the pull, then they let go. The buildup of the tension in the entire arm will take a little while to dissipate for the arm to feel completely normal again. It's similar to that. 

Is this normal? It's certainly annoying, not to mention I'm afraid that it's a sign of or precursor to injury. 

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,146

Most people can wrap their index finger and thumb around their wrist and have them touch. As for what you are experiencing some hand holds put one's wrist in a position that pinches the nerves. About a year I found a moderate boulder problem in the gym that required open hands on an overhanging section. Normally not a problem. But the hand position hurt like hell. I could not do the problem as set and did some more dynamic moves to avoid that section. I still find similar problems from time to time but none that hurt like than one.

Michael McNutt · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Sounds like it's time for a doctor's appointment.  That sort of pain certainly isn't normal.  

Mei · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 50

Thanks! I think I got it figured out. I started taping around my wrists fairly tight after my partial tear in ligament. Apparently, while the tape does provide protection, it interferes with loading/unloading of the tendons, which results in the pain. I stopped taping and the phenomenon dramatically improved. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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