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Fill out my shoe quiver

Original Post
Luke R 84 · · Athens, GA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 468

So I have been climbing in Katana Laces for a few years now and love them. I have some TC Pros as well which I’ve been trying to use more on longer multipitch. I got a pair of Solutions to use for bouldering and steep sport but they KILL my Achilles (I think they aggravate the bursa or just the attachment point on my outer left heel).

I feel like Solutions would be a perfect complement to my other shoes, but the reality is they are probably causing more damage than they’re worth. Any recommendations for a shoe of similar caliber? If it’s not obvious, I’d prefer Sportiva, but I’m definitely open to others. I’d be interested to try Butora Acros, since they’re very similar. I liked Muira VS and Otaki fit, but they still seem too similar to the Katana Lace in their intended use. 

For what it’s worth, I mostly boulder indoors, which is where I’d use these the most, but would definitely boulder and sport climb outdoors in them. I’m pulling V4-5 in the gym and think my footwork is average at this grade.

The Katanas seem to do really well but I liked how I climbed in Solutions, they just cause the tendon issue. 

PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

If the solutions hurt your heels the Acros will be worse. If your into Butora the Narsha will likely be more your speed. I’m a big fan of the Tenaya Oasi as an ‘aggressive’ shoe with a more squared heel cup.

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,673

Have you tried the La Sportiva Genius? I also climb in katana laces, and the Genius is my other shoe. Katanas are stiff and edgy, (with harder XS Edge rubber), the Genius is more flexible and edgless design, with softer XS Grip2 rubber. (So, similar style and same rubber as the solutions.)

Despite the "edgeless" nomenclature, they actually edge really well, as the rubber conforms to tiny features. They're great shoes for steep, pumpy sport routes or boulder problems, or for routes when you want higher friction vs. the harder rubber on the Katanas.

FWIW, one of my regular climbing partners uses Geniuses as his primary shoe, and he hated the pair of solutions that he picked up to try out. (So the fit is apparently different between the Genius and the Solution. I'ave never tried Solutions myself, so i can't comment on that personally.)

I sized mine the same as my Katana Laces, and it's a great fit for me..

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Have you tried the Skwama?  Supposed to be a similar design to Solutions, but with a different fit.

Garret Nuzzo-Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,446

This is a useful chart so you can try on something similar in fit. I have a monster foot so the only thing I can fit in properly is the Testarossa.

Justin Laursen · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 490

I have worn Solutions for over a decade and just bought a pair of Skwamas earlier this year. I have to say that they are becoming my go to bouldering and indoor sport shoe and conform to my foot much more than my Solutions. I still break out the Solutions for more difficult projects (eleven years of use comes in handy) or something that requires a little bit more rigidity, but it's becoming rarer and rarer. I bought the Skwamas in the same size as my Solutions and at first they seemed too small, but now they can feel pretty baggy when it's warm outside and I start sweating. If I were to buy another pair, I would size down a half to a full size from my Solutions. Plus they're a steal in comparison!

Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 115

"Shoe quiver," is that anything like "Elvis leg?"   (Sorry, long day at work and I haven't had a beer yet this evening.)

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

I really like how the women's Katakis with XS Grip2 complement the men's Katana LU with XS Edge. I've also been considering Futuras for a pure bouldering shoe. I didn't really like the Miuras, TC Pros, or Skwamas, but that's just me. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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