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Jared Vagy book 2017: Climb Injury-Free

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kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 11,832

Just spent some hours going through new book written by a physical therapist with lots of serious climbing experience.

initial impressions . . .

* lots of specific exercises with clear photos and instructions.

* lots of impressive endorsements by top climbers.

* good presentations of known conventional "makes sense" methods and approaches -- also adds some creative new suggestions.

* comprehensive - 244 pages is the biggest book I've seen on this subject.

* non-complicated framework for rehabilitation of different climbing injuries, with specific steps and exercises.

* low-cost tricks for substituting home-made stuff for more expensive specialized rehab equipment - (and I guess some readers will try to use chapters of this book as low-cost substitutes for visiting a qualified Physical Therapist).

* has lots of ideas for injury-prevention exercises and warmups.

* lots of suggestions for injury-avoiding climbing techniques.


kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 11,832

some further thoughts:

* I think I will try some of his ideas for preventive warmup (especially muscle-activation) in chapter 2.

* most of the exercises are performed with a TheraBand (long wide elastic band). So if you want to view lots of photos of attractive models entwined with red elastic, this book is for you.

* on the other hand, if you think training exercises ought to have measurable resistance and/or range-of-motion, not find many of those.

* not much concern about which of the conventional "makes sense" methods have more or less support from careful clinical evidence (as opposed to Placebo effect).

. . . (Dave MacLeod's book tries harder on this sort of thing).

. . . (The remarkable collection of celebrity endorsements in the Jared Vagy book ought to help increase its Placebo effect, which is a good result since the healing benefits of the Placebo effect are often very real).

* seemed to me that Dave MacLeod's description of diagnosis and rehab of "climber's elbow" is more complicated -- and more insightful and helpful -- than in this book
. . . (but I'm not any sort of Physical Therapist or any sort of Sports Medicine surgeon or doctor).

* technique? Many of the injury-avoiding climbing-technique suggestions I found unconvincing. Still those are the conventional oft-repeated suggestions, so you can find them collected in this book, then analyze and decide for yourself.

. . . (Some tricky technique points to check . . . big photo page 69 compare w page 68; big photos pages 41 and 197; first paragraph of Pro Advice on page 196).


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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