Jared Vagy book 2017: Climb Injury-Free
Just spent some hours going through new book written by a physical therapist with lots of serious climbing experience.
initial impressions . . .
* lots of specific exercises with clear photos and instructions.
* lots of impressive endorsements by top climbers.
* good presentations of known conventional "makes sense" methods and approaches -- also adds some creative new suggestions.
* comprehensive - 244 pages is the biggest book I've seen on this subject.
* non-complicated framework for rehabilitation of different climbing injuries, with specific steps and exercises.
* low-cost tricks for substituting home-made stuff for more expensive specialized rehab equipment - (and I guess some readers will try to use chapters of this book as low-cost substitutes for visiting a qualified Physical Therapist).
* has lots of ideas for injury-prevention exercises and warmups.
* lots of suggestions for injury-avoiding climbing techniques.
some further thoughts:
* I think I will try some of his ideas for preventive warmup (especially muscle-activation) in chapter 2.
* most of the exercises are performed with a TheraBand (long wide elastic band). So if you want to view lots of photos of attractive models entwined with red elastic, this book is for you.
* on the other hand, if you think training exercises ought to have measurable resistance and/or range-of-motion, not find many of those.
* not much concern about which of the conventional "makes sense" methods have more or less support from careful clinical evidence (as opposed to Placebo effect).
. . . (Dave MacLeod's book tries harder on this sort of thing).
. . . (The remarkable collection of celebrity endorsements in the Jared Vagy book ought to help increase its Placebo effect, which is a good result since the healing benefits of the Placebo effect are often very real).
* seemed to me that Dave MacLeod's description of diagnosis and rehab of "climber's elbow" is more complicated -- and more insightful and helpful -- than in this book
* technique? Many of the injury-avoiding climbing-technique suggestions I found unconvincing. Still those are the conventional oft-repeated suggestions, so you can find them collected in this book, then analyze and decide for yourself.
. . . (Some tricky technique points to check . . . big photo page 69 compare w page 68; big photos pages 41 and 197; first paragraph of Pro Advice on page 196).