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Best place to sport climb in the Sedona area


Original Post
Don Ton · · Gardena, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Hi, my girlfriend and I plan on camping at Sedona for a night and we plan to hit up some easy sport routes and easy approach (less than 30 minutes).  Do you guys have any recommendations?  


Sport Grades: 5.7-5.10b

Approach: less than 30 minutes


Thanks in advance!  

Scott M. McNamara · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55
Kujawski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 66

Your best bet for mainly sport climbs would be the planiteriun. The approach is super mellow, less than 15 min from the trailhead, but the climbing there is pretty stout. I think the easiest route there is a 10 or 10+. Most of the routes are in the 11 and 12 range. The beach walls (right above the planetarium) has some other cool sport routes but the approach is a bit of a grunt, I think I took us about 45 or 50 min (starts at same trailhead). Other than that most climbing in sedona is multi pitch trad. Mars attack, wild wild west, and nirvana have sport pitches but for the majority of the routes youll be putting in your own gear. Approaches are a little over an hour, especially if it's your first time. 

Don Ton · · Gardena, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Scott M. McNamara wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105787831/the-pit

Thank you, friend!  I'll be hitting up this place

Don Ton · · Gardena, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Kujawski wrote:

Your best bet for mainly sport climbs would be the planiteriun. The approach is super mellow, less than 15 min from the trailhead, but the climbing there is pretty stout. I think the easiest route there is a 10 or 10+. Most of the routes are in the 11 and 12 range. The beach walls (right above the planetarium) has some other cool sport routes but the approach is a bit of a grunt, I think I took us about 45 or 50 min (starts at same trailhead). Other than that most climbing in sedona is multi pitch trad. Mars attack, wild wild west, and nirvana have sport pitches but for the majority of the routes youll be putting in your own gear. Approaches are a little over an hour, especially if it's your first time. 

I can't wait until I get my trad gear together to climb more routes.  Thank you friend!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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