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5.9 Chimneys in the Northeast


Original Post
Adam Hammershoi · · Hartford, CT · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 185

Does anyone know of any 5.9 chimneys in the northeast area? Trad preferably, but sport will do. I rarely ever get to climb a chimney and I'm heading to RR in a month and the first objective is to climb Epinephrine. Some practice would help. 


Thanks!

Alissa Doherty · · Boston, MA · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 105

I make it a point to avoid chimneys but below are a few that might fit the bill. I do think most folks figure out Epinephrine's chimneys on the job--there's only so many techniques that can be employed :) Also not sure how much fun these will be in February/March but good on you for the pre-season rock stoke!

Touch of Class P3

Hard Times P3

Giants Chimney

Miss Bailey (not 5.9 but still engaging)




Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Hart times and touch of class are going to be way harder and scarier than anything you will find in red rocks,,,

beensandbagged · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 10

North Conway area has a couple of 5.8 chimneys that come with a little history. 

lucander · · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 257

Yikes!  It's a bit cold in the northeast to get out and train for a Red Rock chimney this month.  

For what it's worth, Epi only has a couple chimneys and they're though but way easier than many chimneys elsewhere.  The smooth sandstone is not very abrasive and it's nice & clean.  

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 119

Check out Plumber's Crack (5.9/V0) when you get there, a lot of people do that as prep for Epinephrine's chimneys.

Kedron Silsbee · · Munich · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Hart times and touch of class are going to be way harder and scarier than anything you will find in red rocks,,,

dunno...I found the Epinephrine chimneys harder and scarier than Touch of Class.  Ventre de Boeuf at the Gunks is worthwhile, though not exactly the same sort of climbing.  I found the normal start scary and backed off.  The direct start has a short 5.10 offwidth section that you can easily pull through with big cams, and gets you to the fun 5.9 slot at the top.  Not nearly as good of training as the Adirondacks, but perhaps more realistic in February.

Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 96

There's also this at Red Rock: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106516267/sport-chimney

But the chimneys really aren't anything you won't be able to figure out. They will be a little scary and physical if you haven't done much chimneying, but you'll get up them if you're leading 10b trad. Climb it with a capable partner so you can switch leads and take a break. Second chimney pitch is the crux. Last chimney pitch is run out but a lot easier because the rock has a lot of features there. Make sure you locate the bolt halfway up the last chimney and aim for that (you'll stay towards the mouth of the chimney). Some people burrow way deep and then run into a dead end as it gets too tight.

Mobes Mobesely · · Granite island · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865

Epinephrine would be 5.7 in the NE. Try Rat crack in CT

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 36

Smokestack is a 5.9+ sport route at Rumney that starts off in a chimney for about half the route.

Suz Zak · · New Haven, CT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 50

As an ex west coaster who's climbed epi I was impressed by some of the lines in the new! At the gunks I really enjoyed The Last Frontier because you've got to be able to jam and it starts with a chimney 

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,989

Giants Chimney is currently very loose, dirty and wet and probably r/x, and probably has a bunch of ice in it now, so until I get my butt up there and retro it, it is probably not what you are looking for.

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 710
Rob Blakemore · · Boston, MA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 30

Nobody has mentioned the chimneys at Peterskill in the Gunks. I haven't climbed Epinephrine, but Santa's Escape at Peterskill looks to be a similar width (the width varies the deeper you go, so you could practice different sizes).  No gear really, but easy enough TR setup. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105910444/santas-escape


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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