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A next level shoe


Original Post
Jake W · · Provo, UT · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

I'm looking to upgrade my shoes from a beginning shoe to a more advanced shoe. Which shoes do y'all think I should check out? I mostly do outdoor sport climbing, but am starting to get into trad climbing, so I'm trying to find a shoe that can do it all

Jan van den Handel II · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 50

Unless your climb 11es and up I would stick with anything comfortable. 

Cory F · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

TC Pro is a pretty common go to shoe.  Its not aggressive, super comfortable, and great for crack climbing! 

Nick Niebuhr · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 465

Something that fits well. I have some La Sportiva Miuras that are good for everything, for me they have just the right fit to be precise but also comfy enough for jamming. Also depends what kinda trad you're getting into, if you'll be at Indian Creek all the time you'll want a different shoe than if your trad is a mix of face/crack.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Depends on where.

If your sport routes are steep and juggy then you are gonna want a soft shoe.

If they are vert and thin you are gonna want a stiffer shoe etc.

Same with your trad routes...a Gunks shoe is not a Tuolumne shoe necessarily.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 380
Nick Niebuhr wrote:

Something that fits well. I have some La Sportiva Miuras that are good for everything, for me they have just the right fit to be precise but also comfy enough for jamming. Also depends what kinda trad you're getting into, if you'll be at Indian Creek all the time you'll want a different shoe than if your trad is a mix of face/crack.

I love the Miuras too.  If the OP is not necessarily looking for something that is super downturned or aggressive, but rather just a great, higher-end shoe that rewards good footwork and is incredibly versatile, the Miuras are the way to go.  I'd even venture to say that Miuras would excel at both the Gunks and Tuolomne, with a fair variety of cracks as well.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

A standard fit Miura is hell in moderate cracks. 

A comfy Katana lace is a better choice or just the TC Pro for a do it all performance shoe.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

Totally depends on what fits your foot. Head to your nearest climbing shop (not rei) and chat them up and get fitted properly. Most companies have a solid quiver of shoes from flat to extremely aggressive- and the one that fits your foot the best is the one you should get. 

Only, Locals · · #iGREWhereUflewHERE · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,160

Do you have instagram?  Check out what everyone is wearing on your feed, and get that.  Trust me.

Zach Holt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 80

+1 for Muiras. 

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 92
Mobes Mobesely · · Granite island · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865
Locals Only wrote:

Do you have instagram?  Check out what everyone is wearing on your feed, and get that.  Trust me.

I believe this is what Bearbreeder recommended daily as well. 

Mike Palasek · · Columbus, OH · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

I like the Tenaya Tarifa. Does everything well, AND it's very comfortable. 

Cory F · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25
Mike Palasek wrote:

I like the Tenaya Tarifa. Does everything well, AND it's very comfortable. 

Woah, I think I was the only one who felt that way!  But...  I do like TC Pros for long multipitch days

Aidan Raviv · · South Pasadena, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 100

May help to know what shoe you are coming from and what you do and don't like about it.

Benjamin Mitchell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Cory Furrow wrote:

TC Pro is a pretty common go to shoe.  Its not aggressive, super comfortable, and great for crack climbing! 

I would respectfully disagree, I don't think it's a good all-arounder. I think the Mythos is more of an all around shoe. For me the TC Pro is really stellar for sustained foot jamming but not great for anything else, particularly bad on thin cracks, overhangs, and granite slab stand-on-a-crystal type stuff. Maybe I just suck though. The Miura VS is basically the inverse, great performance on almost every type of climb but hurts like hell for sustained foot jamming and it also hurts like hell if you whip on slabbier stuff in downturned shoes

Greg Shea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

Anasazi pinks

Cory F · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

Benjamin, All good.  I was more surprised that someone gave it a shout out.  I like the Tarifa's they are pretty comfy and I like them for the gym or sport climbing.  However, imo other shoes are better for Slab and Cracks,

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Benjamin Mitchell wrote:

I think the Mythos is more of an all around shoe. For me the TC Pro is really stellar for sustained foot jamming but not great for anything else, particularly bad on thin cracks, overhangs, and granite slab stand-on-a-crystal type stuff.

I don't see how Mythos (as opposed to Katana Lace/Otaki/Kataki) is better in any of the areas you thought TC Pro was bad at. And certainly, when sized tight, TC Pro can stand on very small holds (Dawn Wall anyone?)

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
Jake W wrote:

I'm looking to upgrade my shoes from a beginning shoe to a more advanced shoe. Which shoes do y'all think I should check out? I mostly do outdoor sport climbing, but am starting to get into trad climbing, so I'm trying to find a shoe that can do it all

climbing friend,

you BUY most expensive shoe POSSIBLE!!! you then CLIMB immediately 7 grade harder due to shoe alone, all their flash are belong to you!!!! hahahahahahasdhfasdhfhasdhhahaghhaghaghahghaghaghahgahghaghahgahg myaha myah ymahahma myahggghhhhhh!!!!

just buy the shoe which is fitting onto your stank foot as well as possible quite tight but severe pain not needed, no. the brand it matters not, just good fitting nicely

Phil Lauffen · · The Bubble · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,320
reboot wrote:

I don't see how Mythos (as opposed to Katana Lace/Otaki/Kataki) is better in any of the areas you thought TC Pro was bad at. And certainly, when sized tight, TC Pro can stand on very small holds (Dawn Wall anyone?)

^This. TC Pros are my go-to shoe bouldering in yosemite... which is mostly slab and face. I only reach for something more aggressive if it gets steeper

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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