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Historic / Collectable Yosemite bolt hangers for sale / trade


Original Post
Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

1. The Nose, El Capitan (1958). 3/8” Star Dryvin bolt with homemade hanger. This is the only piece in this collection of old bolts that is super rare. Nose bolts are hard to come by, and this one, if not original, is pretty darn close. I replaced it at the base of the Great Roof pitch. Warren Harding, or one of his many partners, placed this bolt.

 


2. Tissack, Half Dome (1974). ¼” bolt in home made angle-iron hanger. Tissack challenged an older Robbins, who did not want to place so many bolts. Robbins and partner Don Peterson used a variety of conventional and home made bolt hangers on the climb.

 


3. Grape Race, El Capitan (1975). ¼” bolt in home made ring-angle piton hanger. Super classic, old school setup. Placed by Charlie Porter

4. Grape Race, El Capitan (1975). ¼” bolt in home made angle-iron hanger. Charlie Porter placed this bolt.

5. North Face of Higher Cathedral Spire (1961). ¼” Star Dryvin bolt in aluminum Dolt hanger. This is the classic hardware of the early 60s – aluminum bolt hangers made by climber Bill ‘Dolt’ Feurer, and soft sleeved, nail-in bolts. Tom Frost and Royal Robbins placed this bolt.

6. Chouinard – Herbert, Sentinel (1962). ¼” Star Dryvin bolt in home made aluminum hanger with Yvon Chouniard’s initals etched in the hanger.

7. The Prow, Washington Column (1969). ¼” bolt in home made aluminum hanger. Royal Robbins and Glen Denny placed this bolt on the first ascent of the Prow.

8. West Buttress, El Capitan (1963). ¼” Star Dryvin bolt in smooth, home made aluminum hanger. West Buttress was the third route established on El Cap. Layton Kor and Steve Roper placed this bolt.

9. Lost World, El Capitan (1975). ¼” bolt in home made piton hanger. This is a classic bolt from the golden era – a simple hole drilled in an ring-angle piton made a quick bolt hanger.

10. Tissack, Half Dome (1974). ¼” bolt in cool, bent iron (strong!) home made hanger. Tissack challenged an older Robbins, who did not want to place so many bolts. Robbins and partner Don Peterson used a variety of conventional and home made bolt hangers on the climb.


I have a ton of this stuff, so will probably add to this post if it generates some interest. (Also still have signed quickdraw from Adam Ondra Dawn Wall, and same quickdraw from Tommy and Kevin Dawn Wall).

Thanks!

Erik Sloan

Yosemitebigwall.com - RockClimbYosemite.com

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

This is pretty interesting stuff.  Have you contacted Patagonia and offered them old bolts for their historical archive?  I saw a thread on supertopo showing their nut collection.  They put some effort into it.

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

I'd be psyched to get this stuff in some collections!....I have a lot more, lol. 

Bo Hellams · · Fallbrook · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 95

This is awesome Erik. Quite a story of hitory. 

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,187

Donate it all to Ken Yeager for the Yo Exhibit.


Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139
Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
bruno-cx wrote:

Anyone else notice the neglected cam on the bedroom floor? 

Lol I saw that and all I could think is *A wild C4 appears*

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

Lol, actually not a neglected cam - it was left broken in Silent Line in Ribbon Fall when a block shifted and crushed it. We climbed past the block and then it fell off the cliff, so this crushed gold camalot was in the bin with the old bolts, haha....things you collect while climbing

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

Everyone is interested in the NOse stuff, so I'll say $175 + shipping for any piece not from the Nose. And here is all that I have from the Nose, if you're looking for something different:

Randy Sandoval · · Elk Grove · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

Im  interested. Can you provide documentation, even heresay, that shows what bolt came from what pitch?If so, Im ready to deal.


Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

I have date-stamped photos from the majority of routes that I replaced bolts on. Hit me up at erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

Thanks for your interest gang! I still have a ton of these bolts, so hit me up if you're interested at erik@yosemitebigwall.com

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,080

I'm curious as to how "right of ownership" or more aptly "right to sell" the pictured artifacts was obtained.

Is it implied upon removal? 

Anyone who buys this stuff will create future demand.......

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

Hi John,

I spent the last twenty years replacing bolts in Yosemite, the result of which is that I have a ton of old, very cool looking bolts. I've donated many to various organizations, but there are still a lot, haha, so just trying to clean out my closet. For me, there are still so many bolts to replace, and a million other stewardship projects to go in Yosemite, so getting these into the hands of people that will appreciate them is just my effort toward being able to help out more in the future. 

Erik

Rockclimbyosemite.com - Yosemitebigwall.com

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 139

Some feedback from folks who got bolts - would love to get rid of more of these, lol, there are only so many old bolts a person needs, haha,........ and I have hundreds:

We got our stuff today.... Super RAD! Thanks for the extra leepers. What a cool thing that these came off the first ascent Tis-sa-sak and by Royal.. very cook Erik, Thank you!!!

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 125

Got my bolts from Erik Super Cool. My 11yr old is reading Royal Robbins "To Be Brave" and was super stoked that he was holding a bolt that Royal had placed. Thanks Erik for putting these out here for us to get! Awesome that you are replacing old sketchy hardware as well.. Thanks man!! 

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 185

Sent a message about Robbins bolts through your website about a week ago and haven’t heard back. Let me know if there is a better way to communicate with you. 

Andy Novak · · Golden, Co · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

Selling "historic" bolts to those with expendable income, adding legitimacy to this endeavor by claiming you've spent 20 years replacing bolts?  Jesus.  Now I've seen it all.

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 7,569

Lot of this stuff around.  Very cool to put it in a museum!  Anyone know who did this?

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111626530

Thanks,  Roy

Billcoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 833
Roy Suggett wrote: Lot of this stuff around.  Very cool to put it in a museum!  Anyone know who did this?

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111626530

Thanks,  Roy



It was made by Gerry in the 60's. So perhaps GG means Gerry Gear?
Arne Boveng · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

You are a criminal.  Those are not your bolts to sell.  That is theft from a national park of historic value.  Should go to the park archives or museum collector, like Ken Y.  

Contact those you've sold to, refund the money and return the bolts to the public.  Those are not yours!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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