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Climbing Injury Book Opinions

Original Post
Cole T · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 386

Anyone that has bought this have a review on it? Helpful? Not helpful? Was looking for a decent resource rather than combing MP threads for climbing injuries and things to do to avoid them. (Currently dealing with finger pain). Is there another book/ resource for this?

Danny · · brooklyn, ny · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 25

i have not bought or read this book. but maybe try checking this out:

along the lines of this article, i've been rehabbing a painful finger with very light and easy hangboarding every 2 to 3 days , progressing the load  super super slowly. i've felt progress and a lot less pain. 

Lin Robinson · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 30

It’s a pretty good resource. I like what the Climbing Doctor does as well

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 15,840

I bought it and read several parts.

I remember thinking that Dave MacLeod's book, Make or Break, is way better.

And that much of Dr J's stuff is better.


Cole T · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 386

So currently the big 3 books on climbing injuries are:

  • Climbing Injuries Solved by Lisa Erickson
  • Make or Break by Dave MacLeod and
  • Climb Injurey Free by Jared Vagey

With tentative favorite being the third one. 

Thanks folks.

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 25

I like Make or Break and reviewed it here.

Macleod is a coach not a medical professional and this is both a strength and weakness. He’s sometimes over-reliant on his own experiences because he won’t have seen 100s of clients with the same issue. Some don’t like this book because it doesn’t give quick solutions - ‘if it hurts at X then do Y’ - but rather encourages folk to self-assess the relative contributions of a range of possible factors that lead to injury. I think this is a huge strength and more likely to result in less time off and harder climbing in the long term. If you prefer to simply follow a recipe it might not be the book for you.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 356

Cole, I have the Anderson brother's manual you can borrow if that helps. There is a chapter on injury prevention, I haven't read it so I don't know how in depth it gets.

Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,371

This is the best book out there by doctors who walk the walk.

WillF · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 30

I would concur with Sam on the "One Move Too Many" being the best book for climbing injuries. I have the first edition and it was excellent.

I haven't read David MacLeod or Jared Vegey's book, but I purchased Lisa Erickson's book. I did not finish the Erickson book because I saw a couple errors in the muscle anatomy pictures. I purchased it to have better pictures of the hand anatomy for my students, but I did not use it because of the errors. 


kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 15,840

I've owned (and read large poriions of) both editions of One Move Too Many.

The new edition did not improve much. My opinion is that it was good in its day, but kind of a shame that they did not reach out to embrace more new findings for the more recent edition.

. . . (Have not seen the Jared Vagy book -- just now ordered a copy).

I think Dave MacLeod's book is way better at this point.

Cole T · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 386

I would appreciate if those that recent bought Jared's book and have gone through the others to report back on their preference between the books

Corey Winstead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20

In the realm of up to date resources, y'all might check out Vertical Aid. It's a brand new (2017) book by climbers who are also medical professionals. I've appreciated the fact that it does double duty in both acute and chronic climbing injuries, covering everything from my current issue with rotator cuff tendinitis, to keeping me sharp on how to treat snow blindness during glacier travel. I think if you're just going to have one book on the shelf for climbing injuries, this ones the best I've found. 

Austin Archer · · Bishop, Ca. · Joined May 2011 · Points: 260

Check out a book by Mike Gable called, “Beyond Tape” The author is a Physical Therapist/ long time climber who lives in Bishop, Ca. It’s a great book, well organized, and very in-depth.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
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