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Privately Owned Crags With Public Access


Original Post
Ryan Surface · · Kansas City · Joined May 2014 · Points: 379

Community,

I was curious how many privately owned crags are out there that allow access to the public? I would not include crags owned by Climbers Coalitions or non-profits as "private". Please include if they charge or not for access. I'll start the list.. and I'll update as people contribute.

EDIT: I'm not asking you to post your secret crag where you have a handshake agreement with a landowner. I'm asking about crags that are expressly open for business. 

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AR

Robinson Bluff, MO

Roadside Crag, KY

Torrent Falls, KY

Crawdad Canyon (aka Veyo), UT

Monhonk Preserve, NY

Horse Pens 40, AL

Little Rock City, TN

 

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

I can think of at least one that is open to public, but there isnt info online because the property owners dont want liability. I dont think this thread is a good idea

Tapawingo Markey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

Your goal being what?

dnoB ekiM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 2,550

Crawdad Canyon (aka Veyo) utah 

And I think Reimer’s is owned by the Municipality now

Ryan Surface · · Kansas City · Joined May 2014 · Points: 379
rafael wrote:

I can think of at least one that is open to public, but there isnt info online because the property owners dont want liability. I dont think this thread is a good idea

It doesn't really sound like this crag is open to the public then. I'm not asking for people to post private areas where they have a handshake agreement with the landowner. I'm asking about crags that are open for business. 

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Why?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,750

Uh...THE GUNKS.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

the crag I am thinking of is open to anyone who goes, theres no handshake, the owner just doesnt want any liability. Unless the people who own the crags being listed expressly agree to their property being posted online like this it should absolutely not be on. 

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,145

The Gunks is probably the most well known and is own by the Mohonk Preserve. Visitors are charged.

The Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon is probably second most well known and is owned by the LDS Church. Visitors are not charged. The property is now leased to the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance.

FWIW theLDS Church has allowed public access solely because of Utah's land owner liability law (aka Recreational Use Statue). https://le.utah.gov/xcode/Title57/Chapter14/C57-14_1800010118000101.pdf Many states have similar statues. The basic premise is that if a landowner does not charge for access to their land for recreational purposes their liability is limited. It does prevent a landowner from being sued but gives them a defense against an action. The Gate Buttress has served as a working example for over two decades.

Rafael if you know the land owner point them to the CA statue: http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/codes_displaySection.xhtml?lawCode=CIV§ionNum=846

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Reimers is not privately owned. It is owned by Travis County. 

Heavy on the J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Horse Pens 40 (Alabama) and Little Rock City (Chattanooga) if you want to include bouldering areas. They both charge a fee.

climber pat · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 215

I suspect this thread is in response to a post in another thread supporting transfer of public lands to private owners with the belief that climbing access would not be affected.

I know of one local area where the land owner implicitly allowed climbing.  The land recently sold and the new owner does not want climbing on his land. 

Another privately held climbing area, with explicit permission to climb, was sold to the nature conservancy which enforced a no climbing policy or any other public use. This land was eventually traded to the BLM who reopened the land to climbing and other public uses.

I know of many cliffs (dozens) behind no trespassing signs that look like they might be good for climbing.

Likewise many ranchers no longer allow access to public lands through their land, effectively closing off thousands of acres of public land to the public. The ranchers use their access to sell guided hunts on these public land.  Access seems to get worse with each change of ownership.

My opinion is transferring public land to private entities, or states, will harm climbing and public  access and is very bad policy.

dnoB ekiM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 2,550

Castle Rock, TN

Draper Bluff, IL on a very limited basis (mostly closed due to liability concerns)

Ryan Surface · · Kansas City · Joined May 2014 · Points: 379

The purpose of this thread is to get an inventory of privately owned climbing areas where the owners have expressly opened their land up to the public. 

Again I'm NOT asking you to post your secret crag where farmer Bob gave you permission to climb and you still send him a Christmas Card every year to maintain good terms. 

dnoB ekiM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 2,550

The Rock Domain in RRG https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/introducing-the-rock-domain-the-reds-newest-climbing-area

And Muir Valley might meet your definition too

Bryce Adamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 636

Mohonk preserve is a nonprofit and seems not to count according to your op. Mohonk mountain house (skytop) is for profit and requires you to be guided.

Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 290

For Colorado, I can’t think of one privately owned crag with public climbing.

Edit:  I forgot about Culebra Peak. 

James Sweeney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

 Aye laddies. In Scotland there's the Right to Roam.

 

Will Haden · · KC, MO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 90
dnoB ekiM wrote:

And Muir Valley might meet your definition too

Muir Valley for sure. 

Tapawingo Markey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75
Ryan Surface wrote:

The purpose of this thread is to get an inventory of privately owned climbing areas where the owners have expressly opened their land up to the public. 

Again I'm NOT asking you to post your secret crag where farmer Bob gave you permission to climb and you still send him a Christmas Card every year to maintain good terms. 

I gathered that much. I’m just genuinely curious why you need/want the information and what you’re intending to do with it.

Will Haden · · KC, MO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 90
Tapawingo Markey wrote:

I gathered that much. I’m just genuinely curious why you need/want the information and what you’re intending to do with it.

If it's any consolation for the interwebz, Ryan is a well known route developer and advocate for Missouri (and beyond) climbing. I havent spoken with him personally about this thread but I am sure he only has the best of intentions and the well-being of the greater climbing community at heart. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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