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Easy crack


Original Post
Nathan Zacharias · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

I'm new to the trad game and would love to dial in my crack technique. Anyone have any suggestions for routes or areas with some easy to moderate cracks? I want to practice putting in gear and jamming. I live in Sacramento, and anything within a couple hours would be ideal. Bonus points for places accessible during the winter! 

Scottmx426 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Hogs back at lovers leap has a variety of 5.4-5.6 low angle routes that are EASY climbing, easy approach. Weather depending of course but it’s been very dry there. Close to Sac. 

Kenny DuJardin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Like Scottmx426 said, Hogs Back would be a great choice.  If you want shorter and less committing stuff, Consumnes River Gorge in Placerville would also be a good option.  There are some pretty good easy cracks there.  Perfect climbing weather during the winter, but it does tend to get crowded.

Jared M · · Oakland, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

Cosumnes is a quick drive and approach. You can set up TRs and run laps on Dinkum (fingers) and Test Piece (lieback, thin hands).

Phantom Spires has a few crack routes in the 5.5-5.8 range and may be dry with the mild winter so far. Recommend a high clearance vehicle. 

Nathan Zacharias · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Right on! I did a couple of the easy routes at hogsback a few weeks back and that was the perfect intro to placing gear. That's the kind of stuff I'm looking for, and into the (well protected) 5.7-5.8 range. 

I'll have to check out consumnes, that sounds perfect. 

We thought about hitting phantom spires a couple weeks ago but we're worried there would be too much snow. Anyone been there this winter? 

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Nathan Zacharias wrote:

Right on! I did a couple of the easy routes at hogsback a few weeks back and that was the perfect intro to placing gear. That's the kind of stuff I'm looking for, and into the (well protected) 5.7-5.8 range. 

I'll have to check out consumnes, that sounds perfect. 

We thought about hitting phantom spires a couple weeks ago but we're worried there would be too much snow. Anyone been there this winter? 

Its open. No snow.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Here's a great trad route, 4 pitches, with some jamming (the pro is good on the whole route):

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105791699/tollhouse-traverse

Eric1111 Brandt · · San Francisco · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

The Grotto has some nice single pitch moderate cracks that would be doable in winter.

Nathan Zacharias · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks all! This should be more than enough to get me through the next few weekends. 

Nathan Zacharias · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Do any of you happen to know where I can buy a copy of the guidebook Rock Climbs of Placerville?

GizzardJones · · Rancho Cordova,CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 350

Granite arch in rancho cordova has a copy

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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