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Least cruxy 12d/13a at Motherload


Original Post
Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 70
MarcYY · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 20

40 oz of justice. 

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,509

In all honesty the jug haul "Bend Over Here It Comes Again"(B.O.H.C.A.)  that & Ro- Sham- Bo(?) as a warm up, are what I went after,BITD. But I dont think those are not at the Motherload ?. . . .

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 70

40oz of Justices looks really cool, but the description seems to imply a couple of cruxes? Or are those more "redpoint cruxes" than "OMG this is undoable cruxes"?

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,509

yeah, I know, my whole sport climbing period -(@most5yrs)-  is a foggy memory. The incredible overhanging nature of The Motherload is intimidating, but it has holds, a ladder almost. I was only on-sighting .easy .12a, when some locals in tights with red hair and glasses pulled me up so i could check out the view., I got pretty far from the middle on out, after a few tries over 6 weeks., Give it a go, if you get the chance  .  .  .  CHEAT OFTEN AND SKIP UP TO THE VERY END BEFORE THE CHAINS, TO APPRECIATE THE RELENTLESS NATURE... .YMMV

MarcYY · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 20

For 12+/13- you aren’t going to get something without a “crux”. But 40oz is as close as you are going to get to an endurance route. Tuna Town is also a good one too. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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